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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found
Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.
Topic
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Date |
User
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Making static rope anchor with more than 2 points |
22-Jan-2020 At 11:48:02 PM |
IdratherbeclimbingM9
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Message |
Three pieces of well placed trad-gear is mandatory for having some redundancy in most traditional anchors, and is certainly the mantra that I adhere too.
Four or more isn’t unusual, especially in trad mutipitch.
In multiipitch one of those three (or more), pieces needs to cater for upward loading.
There are a few good (and cheap), books around on the subject.
Here is one example that has been reviewed on this Site.
http://www.chockstone.org/Media/Review.asp?Action=Show&BookID=19
Top tip:
An anchor that incorporates a sliding-X will often allow more than one climb to be top-roped off the same setup (not at the same time!), without having to rebuild another anchor...
... or if the desired new activity is close but too far offline to the side, and so is skewing the original anchor into loading only one or two pieces of protection (of the original three), it can have an additional equalised piece added closer to the intended line, as a directional component with minimal fuss to cater for the new angle. |
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