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Any tips to improve this woody design?
12:33:21 PM
Hi all,

Wondering if anyone has any tips to improve the design of the woody below?

I've left some of the roof off the image to show the the internal framework. I'm planning to attach to the side of the house.

Length = 5.6m long
Kickboard panel = .6m high
Climbing panel = 3m
Angle = 30 degrees
max climbing height above the ground = 3.2m

I've kept it to 30 degees (rather than 40 or 45) as there's only a 3 meter fall area and I also want to try to reduce the outward load on my timber frame house. I also like the 30 degree wall at burnley.

I'm thinking of using structural pine for the frame (maybe treated as it's outdoors?), 12mm marine ply panels and capping it in corrugated roofing to keep the water out.

Any tips to make it more climbable or more structurally sound would be appreciated.

12:58:40 PM

-The verticals on the house wall will see no load as it is now, a couple of horizontals joining them to the framing on the back of the wall would see them loaded with an outwards pull, so design for that.

- you'll be pulling straight along the 'roof line' at the top - the joints need to be strong in tension, which is not really a strong suit of timber, possibly look at rope/cable/steel as well

- most of the weight (wall and climbers) will be supported on the bottom vertical bit, some from the house wall at the top

- I assume there's a lot more framing on the back of the ply that we can't see?

- from what I've read 17+ mm ply is recommended

- Standard sheet size is 1.2 x 2.4 m, so designing around that might save you some money

2:36:17 PM
As Dane mentioned, you'll probably end up rounding up or down to the nearest 1.2m due to plywood sizes. If you have a bit of left over space, try to position it so the whole thing will stay dry if it's windy and wet (especially that end bit). Speaking of the end bit, I wouldn't waste a piece of plywood on that, you will mostly be traversing and you can either grab the framing as a jug, or put screw-ons onto the framing (these are ideal for side-pulls). If neither of those work, you can actually use T-nuts on the frame (although your bolt needs to be exactly the right length), or buy an extra piece of ply later on.

I would consider putting posts against the edge of your property and using horizontal beams from the top of the posts across to the house itself, to be the structural support for the wall. This would minimise the outward load on your house and you then have a lot more options for your roofing (with the current design, it will prevent you from grabbing the top of the wall). You could cover in the whole area.

6:14:42 PM
definitely need 17mm ply at the least or your T-nuts will protrude , especially after tightening with the holds, you can get 18 or 19 mm marine ply sheets, just check the sheet size as marine ply seems to come in 2440 x 1220 rather than the standard 2400 x 1200
a few horizontal wall plates attached to you house wall will allow you to tie the climbing framework back to the house
Lee C
6:30:25 PM
Probably doesn't need to be so wide. 3.6m wide would still be very generous and will result in much higher hold density allowing for many more problem options without buying as many holds. Could also allow space to the side of the woody for a fingerboard beam!

9:05:04 PM
Maybe a splash of color and a fire pit and bean bag area...
10:57:22 PM
For the true Arapiles experience, the fire pit needs to be under the bouldering wall...
11:28:19 AM
I'd go exterior ply instead of marine ply to save a bit of money. Both have waterproof glue but marine ply has the guarantee of no voids like a knot-hole in one of the laminations, important in a boat where you are making cuts to form planks etc. but not critical if you are using full sheets. Also plan around 2.4 x1.2m sheets for material efficiency and framing support at sheet joins. I like Austral ply as their products are made from plantation Hoop Pine, a QLD native.
Don't forget flashing on the top beam against the wall, and yes roof members are under tension so steel strap or all-thread to tie it well to the top beam against the wall, which should be dimensioned for that out-pulling load.

Eduardo Slabofvic
5:20:35 PM
You might want to think about putting some holds on it
9:34:01 AM
Thanks all for the tips! I'll beef up the ply, adjust the dimensions to fit standard sizes, and brace off the wall with a few horizontals. I'll also look into using steel or steel cable off the wall for tension.
I did think about the option of posts on the boundary and a roof over the whole thing, but it would need to be so high that it might look a bit weird...


10:48:34 AM
Which software did you use to make your model?
12:58:41 PM

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