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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 24
Author
Wild Country new Revo belay device.
lukef
2-Jun-2016
7:51:00 PM
This looks really interesting, they've obviously put a lot of work into their industrial design:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQ2agrKnNZg

http://www.wildcountry.com/revo/

Any thoughts?

ajfclark
2-Jun-2016
9:10:31 PM
The centrifugal aspect reminds me of the silent partner.

>Has a completely panic-proof locking mechanism. The Revo has no method of over-riding the locking mechanism, during belaying, or when lowering a climber.

I wonder how that'll work.

Jacques Shurmer
3-Jun-2016
6:51:15 AM
I would assume it has a mechanism similar to the Petzl ASAP fall arrest device.
At almost 250grams its gonna have to convince people over a 77g reverso device

deadbudgy
3-Jun-2016
8:01:37 AM
Looks like it could be good for self belay /rope solo stuff.
kieranl
3-Jun-2016
11:05:00 AM
Good to see that it manages "uncontrolled decents". I have a lot of trouble with those do-gooders.
Jayford4321
3-Jun-2016
1:17:45 PM
On 3/06/2016 deadbudgy wrote:
>Looks like it could be good for self belay /rope solo stuff.
>
Yup, it looks pretty foolproof, but iz it edproof?

Prolly chineeze marketing given all the non english market spin like
>Durable SS jaws panic proof locking machanism
An
>Roto bi-directional.

MayB ed'l B safe using 1, as it won't lock on him no matta which way he orientz himself?

ajfclark
3-Jun-2016
1:21:22 PM
On 3/06/2016 Jacques Shurmer wrote:
>I would assume it has a mechanism similar to the Petzl ASAP fall arrest
>device.
>At almost 250 grams its gonna have to convince people over a 77g reverso device

I would've thought a more useful comparison would be something that offers similar functionality like a grigri 2 @ ~ 170g.
TimP
3-Jun-2016
3:14:13 PM
Trango are at it too:

http://www.trangovergo.com/#vergo-why-ergonomics

I know "coming fall" makes sense in North America...
patto
3-Jun-2016
9:16:41 PM
Seems pretty damn good for an assisted locking device.

I'm been happy without assisted locking though...

ironcheff
3-Jun-2016
10:18:06 PM
I wonder if the locking mechanism is likely to trigger when feeding the rope really quickly while clipping.

ajfclark
4-Jun-2016
8:10:30 AM
My money would be on yes. I guess the interesting bit will be what the device defines as too quickly.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
4-Jun-2016
9:02:28 PM
On 3/06/2016 deadbudgy wrote:
>Looks like it could be good for self belay /rope solo stuff.
>
Hmm.
I'm not so sure it'd be as foolproof for that as the Silent Partner is, as it appears to have an 'unlock trigger' (once weighted), if my reading of the blurb is correct.
The Silent Partner has no such trigger and needs to be unweighted to free up the mechanism once it locks; so due to not having a trigger that can be accidentally set off in an unusual-configuration resulting from a fall, it eliminates that potential weird less-safety possibility.

ajfclark
6-Jun-2016
9:05:52 AM
I don't see that anywhere M9. They mention multiple times that you can't override it. The only thing I can see that's close is the "open release button" which appears to unlock the two halves to put the rope in?

Andrew_M
6-Jun-2016
11:42:57 AM
On 3/06/2016 TimP wrote:
>Trango are at it too:
>
>http://www.trangovergo.com/#ve
>go-why-ergonomics

Looks a lot like the old Trango Cinch, which, well, sucked.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8-Jun-2016
10:57:18 AM
On 6/06/2016 ajfclark wrote:
>I don't see that anywhere M9. They mention multiple times that you can't
>override it. The only thing I can see that's close is the "open release
>button" which appears to unlock the two halves to put the rope in?

My half-bad! You are correct, and the trigger I thought I saw is the one that allows the device to be split to engage the rope.
In the video contained within the link, particularly time-frame from 1:15 to 1:25, it shows (schematically) the device being locked up, and at 1:24 being unlocked simply by pulling the rope in the opposite direction.
This fits the nomenclature regarding not being able to over-ride it, in as much as a weighted rope would make pulling it back (as depicted), a difficult thing to do easily.

ajfclark
8-Jun-2016
11:30:04 AM
I wonder if that means it can't be (easily) used to abseil?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8-Jun-2016
11:46:19 AM
On 8/06/2016 ajfclark wrote:
>I wonder if that means it can't be (easily) used to abseil?

I don't know about this latest crop of centrifugal force 'belay devices', but I do know from experience that abseiling on a Silent Partner, although possible, isn't particularly user friendly, because it wants to lock up at anything approaching reasonable abseiling speed.
It works ok if going slowly, but I have found it can add quite a bit of time to multi-pitch soloing when cleaning the previous pitch/s...

ajfclark
8-Jun-2016
12:57:45 PM
What happens if you're abseiling with the SP and it locks? Do you need to unweight the device slightly?

Drake
8-Jun-2016
2:16:40 PM
Here's a link to a thread on another discussion board, with a video with a british tradster at the bottom introducing the device: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/wild-country-revo/111880037

I think it's best to think about this device as two ATCs with an ASAP in between them. (Petzl's ASAP is an inertial reel autolocking device that is widely used in the rope access world.) Inertial reels lock when the rope speed exceeds a specified velocity- Petzl's ASAP is designed to lock at ~2.5m/s. They lock up reliably and it's harder to interfere with the autolock mechanism on an inertial reel than something like a grigri.

The more I think about this device, the more I think I might like it. However I'm not sure how to transition from catching a fall with the interial reel engaged, to lowering the climber. It seems like the climber would need to unweight the rope to release the reel.

Duang Daunk
8-Jun-2016
4:31:20 PM
What's wrong with our current belay devices?

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 24
There are 24 messages in this topic.

 

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