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rap ring and maillon testing

mikllaw

15-Dec-2015
1:47:45 PM

Neil Gledhill pulled a bunch of ickey gear off climbs in WA which I'm testing this arvo:-

L to R they are
- an unbranded, unrated 5 mm maillon, 316 stainless. <13 kN>
- a rolled aluminium rap ring ((http://www.rockclimbing.com/forum/Climbing_Information_C2/Gear_Heads_F40/Single_rappel_ring_P753828 ) says “The rolled aluminum ones do have a strength rating (SMC Rap Ring = 3400 lb or 15kn NEW)” <14 kN>
- a 6 mm stainless rap ring with a poor weld <15 kN>
- a 6 mm galv ring with a weld with significant undercut <14 kN>
- two 4mm stainless rap rings, that are probably strong, but look like they came off a dog's collar. Used on a lower-off <13 kN>

< this is my guess>

patto

15-Dec-2015
3:07:51 PM

On 15/12/2015 mikllaw wrote:
>- two 4mm stainless rap rings, that are probably strong, but look like
>they came off a dog's collar. Used on a lower-off <13 kN>

My guess is closer to 5KN

gfdonc

15-Dec-2015
4:54:54 PM

Yeah I'll bite. My guesses:
On 15/12/2015 mikllaw wrote:
>- an unbranded, unrated 5 mm maillon, 316 stainless. <16 kN>
>- a rolled aluminium rap ring <11 kN>
>- a 6 mm stainless rap ring with a poor weld <13 kN>
>- a 6 mm galv ring with a weld with significant undercut <12 kN>
>- two 4mm stainless rap rings, that are probably strong, but look like
>they came off a dog's collar. Used on a lower-off <9 kN>

IdratherbeclimbingM9

15-Dec-2015
6:48:05 PM

unbranded, unrated 5 mm maillon, 316 stainless. <12.2 kN>
rolled aluminium rap ring <15.5 kN>
6 mm stainless rap ring with a poor weld <15.8 kN>
6 mm galv ring with a weld with significant undercut <12.2 kN>
two 4mm stainless rap rings, that are probably strong, but look like they came off a dog's collar. Used on a lower-off <10.6 kN if for both tested as a double unit, but only 5.1 each if done as singles>

mikllaw

16-Dec-2015
5:31:42 PM

Results
L to R they are
- an unbranded, unrated 5 mm maillon, 316 stainless. <13 kN> [actual 12.5 kN]
- a rolled aluminium rap ring ((which I didn't test)
- a 6 mm stainless rap ring with a poor weld <15 kN> [actual 30.8 kN]
- a 6 mm galv ring with a weld with significant undercut <14 kN> [actual 12.6 kN]
- two 4mm stainless rap rings, <13 kN> [actual 13.6 & 13.9 kN]
All broke at threads (maillon) or weld (rings)

ajfclark

16-Dec-2015
5:56:17 PM

Why didn't you test the rolled aluminium?

mikllaw

16-Dec-2015
9:58:14 PM

It was near new and a standard high strength object (no weld, rolled up like a cigarette from a flat washer)

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