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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Author
Shoes again 5.10 vs La Sportiva or something else
surfziggy
6-Nov-2015
9:48:05 AM
I've had 5.10 shoes as my last goodness knows how many pairs. I like the moccasym for comfort and it actually seems to work pretty well on Sydney sandstone. But really I'm looking for a high performance shoes. I also recently had another pair of anasazi's which were uncomfortable but effective. Both of these now resemble tramps shoes.
What's the word on the street about rock shoes? I hear from my pommy mates that La Sportiva is better?
Requirements:
* I have narrow feet 8.5UK/9.5 UK 5.10 fits me real good
* I'm looking for something higher performance that the mocc
* I climb mostly sport routes and that's what I'm looking for a shoe for. Narrabeen, 'joey, Berowra etc
* Prefer velcro, but laces may not be a deal breaker
* Comfort is lower down the list of requirements

Any recommendations guys?

ajfclark
6-Nov-2015
3:13:39 PM
I find if you find a brand that fits your foot, stick with it. I like 5.10 for my feet and have far too many of different styles for different things. I use the standard tan Anasazi VCS for general stuff, but bouldering and steeper sport I swap into a pair of Arrowheads, Blackwings, or the Teams that I picked up cheap.

The Arrowheads essentially feel like a downturned version of the VCS, same last with curve, same heel with the same weird space... They work well unless I'm heel hooking.

The team is a totally different last. I haven't tried used them heaps but they seem to work quite well. I like the heel more than the Arrowhead.

The blackwing is my favourite aggressive shoe. I have the previous model. Feels almost the same as the arrowhead, but with a much better heel from the Team and some amazing HF rubber.
mikllaw
6-Nov-2015
4:01:26 PM
Each brand will have few performance models.
Go try everything you can on, tight all over is good, dead spots and tight spots aren't.
If they fit well they don't need to be too tight.
when you find something, buy 3 pairs as they'll stop making them.

I think the Moccasym is a widish shoe, so the narrower 5.10s would be a good start. The Miura probably fits more feet than anything else,
gfdonc
6-Nov-2015
4:13:14 PM
I think Scarpa's are generally a narrower last, so you might want to try some of their models.
I have wide feet and find most models of Sportiva fit me reasonably.
argos44
6-Nov-2015
4:45:29 PM
Funny you say that. I have wide and high volume feet. The only La Sportiva that fits is a TC Pro. On the other hand a few different Scarpas fit great.
dan_b
6-Nov-2015
4:54:48 PM
Second this, on my third pair of Scarpas (try the Vapor - great shoe) and find they fit my widish feet well.

Sabu
6-Nov-2015
7:53:34 PM
I've heard great things about La Sportiva but the obvious downside is the cost. A cheaper alternative are Evolve's which I've used for many years. As with other brands they have a variety of shoes for different requirements and are certainly worth a look. I have narrow feet and they suit me well.

If you're after sport performance look at something like the Shamon (has a more downturned profile) or if you want more of an all rounder look at the Pontas (my choice). Both come in velco (seriously who uses laces these days..)


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