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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
discussion on bolt failures
mikllaw
18-Jul-2015
7:52:08 AM
I rebolted a few routes in The Shire (Bluebell) recently after a bolt fell out and thought you might be interested. This is a rehash of the local area FB page discussion. I pulled 8 stainless glued in carrots, one mild steel glued in carrot, an unwelded mild steel eye bolt (8mm diameter) which snapped, and left in a mild steel bashed in carrot that I couldn’t budge. Some are shown below


I was pulling bolts with a short shifter; all bar one of the glue-ins came out with a small shifter with less than 10 kg force. After a half twist, they could be pulled straight out by hand. The glue was soft, crumbly, yellowish, translucent and flexible. The glue sheared off at the surface of the threads and there was nothing left to hold it in. The culprit here is weak glue (it was rumoured to be araldite) (top bolt in picture below shows glue-filled threads).


One of the glue-ins was bomber and appears to be glued in with modern glue. It took about 20 kg twist to start turning, then I had to turn it out about 12 turns before it could be pulled. The glue de-bonded from the threads (bottom bolt in picture above) but the glue still formed a threaded hole which it needed to be rotated out of. Even with the glue bond broken it would have been bomber. If the threading covered more of the bolt it would be even stronger.

I’m pretty sure the one that fell out was one of the weaker class of bolts, and was in soft drummy rock on the lip of an overhang, in a position where the biner may have been levering it anyway.

I'd be happy with the strength of the Good glue-in, but once I’d started twisting it out I had to replace it (it’s a sport area anyway and I’ll avoid the whole ‘carrots make you see ringbolts in the dark’ debate and just say unless the route is worthless I’d rather have rings) as it's hard to distinguish 'proof-testing' from 'dangerously weakening'.
capt_planit
20-Jul-2015
12:08:36 PM
Thanks for this. I think I'd have been willing to fall on all those, err, except for eye bolt! But once you start a job, I guess you have to finish it!

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