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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Salewa Ergo Belay System
martym
25-Jun-2015
10:22:20 PM
Did anyone else see this "sponsored" post in UK Climbing today?
I watched this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Rin2bjN6Do (Apparently by the creator of the "Ergo") and one of the comments said:
"So basically, it's a mammut smart."


So I googled mammut smart:
vs

Weird... I don't understand what's "ergo" about these? The ergonomic issue with belaying is the posture you have to adopt in order to stay sturdy & watch the climber... so those fancy belay goggles are actually more "ergo" than this thing...

What caught my attention was our baby carrier is called "Ergo Baby" - so I was wondering what the hell that had to do with UK climbing. I'm still confused.
Dave_S
25-Jun-2015
11:14:45 PM
Looks like a somewhat similar mechanism to the Edelrid Mega-Jul. Except that unlike the Mega-Jul, you can't use it to belay or rappel on two strands.

Think I'll keep my Mega-Jul.
martym
25-Jun-2015
11:31:07 PM
On 25/06/2015 Dave_S wrote:
>Looks like a somewhat similar mechanism to the Edelrid Mega-Jul. Except
>that unlike the Mega-Jul, you can't use it to belay or rappel on two strands.
>
>Think I'll keep my Mega-Jul.



So what's the deal, you just keep your thumb in the little hook and use that to adjust the tension?
Dave_S
25-Jun-2015
11:45:41 PM
On 25/06/2015 martym wrote:
>
>So what's the deal, you just keep your thumb in the little hook and use
>that to adjust the tension?

It works just like an ATC or Reverso, except that when the climber falls, as long as the brake strand is running downwards, the device will get pulled down so that the carabiner slides into that groove on the base, and the rope automatically locks. You then use the thumb loop to unlock it. You don't need to keep your thumb in the loop during normal use, only when you need to unlock it, and it doesn't lock when you're merely feeding out rope.

Only downside is that it's more difficult to lower with than an ATC/Reverso.

ajfclark
26-Jun-2015
8:03:52 AM
Looks like the CT Click Up with a tiny verson of the Mammut Smart's handle:
+ =
Does the handle get bigger as it gets older?

Both the Click and the Smart come in an "alpine" two rope version. I wonder does the Ergo?
TimP
26-Jun-2015
12:39:58 PM
Getting off-topic here but I just got a Mega Jul at the Paddy Pallin sale — happened to be going past just after being paid…
I've read getting the right carabiner for it is important, what do you use Dave S and Martym?
Justcameron
26-Jun-2015
12:44:26 PM
I use a black diamond rocklock twist lock but I'm curious to hear what others use.
Also the mega jul makes scuff marks in the top of your biner because it's made of steel.

ajfclark
26-Jun-2015
12:44:37 PM
Oh, and ergo might not be short for ergonomic. It's a word in its own right meaning therefore.

I belay ergo I am?
Dave_S
26-Jun-2015
1:07:48 PM
Tim, I usually use a BD Grid-Lock, but have also tried rappelling with a BD Vaporlock and found that extremely jerky. I'll need to do some more experiments with it, I think... (P.S. Haven't forgotten about your cam lobes, just haven't had time to dig them up from the depths of the garage yet, sorry!)

E. Wells
26-Jun-2015
2:40:30 PM
One thing I dont like about megajul is that to belay well you need your ropes flaked in a nice pile (use one for a while and you will understand) so when your on a semi hanging belay with double 70s laid across your waist its not ideal. A mammut alpinesmart with a fat omega jake biner may be heavier but you dont need the ropes flaked beneath you. Still...very impressed with megajul.
martym
26-Jun-2015
4:55:56 PM
On 26/06/2015 ajfclark wrote:
>I belay ergo I am?

Mega smart.

JamesMc
26-Jun-2015
6:58:07 PM
Belayus ergo sum

Eduardo Slabofvic
27-Jun-2015
3:00:38 PM
Im rosea, ergo sum spam













(Moderator edit: spam deleted!)
gfdonc
28-Jun-2015
10:34:02 AM
Quidquid latine dictum sit, altum sonatur.

Whatever is said in Latin sounds profound.
OodlesDownHere
28-Jun-2015
10:48:14 AM
On 26/06/2015 TimP wrote:
>Getting off-topic here but I just got a Mega Jul at the Paddy Pallin sale
>— happened to be going past just after being paid…
>I've read getting the right carabiner for it is important, what do you
>use Dave S and Martym?
>

Biner needs rounded cross section, not "I" beam, esp with thicker ropes, esp on raps.

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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