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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
outward force on cams when loaded 15-Jun-2015 At 9:29:02 PM phillipivan
Message
On 15/06/2015 harold wrote:
>The force is 2x for each side of the crack, but in a flake one side of
>the crack is the cliff and therefore immovable and all of the force is
>transferred to moving the expando side. So patto is still right with 4x
>force outward on a flake. Have I got this right?

No. You ain't got it right.

If it didn't apply force to both sides it would fall out.

If both sides are 'immoveable' where does the force go? Does it just drift off into space? Maybe it goes into Peter Croft's forearms in anticipation of his next hand jam.

There are 14 replies to this topic.

 

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