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Petzl: D11 "Rappel Rack". For use with 1 or 2 ropes. Diameters from 9mm to 13mm. Two red fixed bars make for easy threading. SUPER Special!  $119.00
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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Poll Option Votes Graph
fat oval biners from the 70s 5
50% 
new but skinny biners 2
20% 
new fat biners (recommend in comments) 3
30% 

Author
Draws for carrots

sbm
30-Sep-2014
1:04:12 PM
The last of my cheap black diamond biners disappeared somewhere, and now every draw I have is either wiregate or super skinny modern solid gate which can still lift off the carrot. Had to do a lot of creative rigging at Mt Boyce on the w/e.

However I have a big football of geniune Choinard oval gates of unknown vintage my uncle gave me. I was thinking about using them to make carrot draws as they might actually be safer.

Do any manufacturers actually still make biners phat enough for carrots and if so what do people recommend.

Start the vigorous and reasoned discussion.

(Someone will say "hurr durr just add Us or rings to the end of your quickdraws" but can we not go there for now, there's still a zillion routes in the Blueys which will have carrots for a while.)
Wendy
30-Sep-2014
2:09:41 PM
I have some old school biners I don't use anymore that are fine for carrots. See here http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=10&MessageID=13578&Replies=24&PagePos=200&Sort=LastMessage#NewPost

The good Dr
30-Sep-2014
2:49:30 PM
Black Diamond still make the Light D.
leeman
30-Sep-2014
8:15:50 PM
Working in a gear shop I've tested alot of draws that are sold in Aus today, and frankly not many make the cut when it comes to bolt plates. Not surprising considering Aus is the only country using them and we don't manufacture any draws locally. The positron from BD almost passes, but I've still had occasions when I could shake the plate off. Mammut have some new draws with a really fat nose which I have never been able to shake off. Can only really comment on BD Petzl Metolius OmegaPacific Edelrid and Mammut. Wild Country's sport draw looks like it could make the cut too but have no personal experience. And like the Dr said, BD's Light D is definitely a winner
martym
30-Sep-2014
9:11:15 PM
Surely there's a few dozen topics in "search" about how no one has ever actually shaken off a bolt plate? I'm sure I've copped that a few times when asking...

The main thing I've heard is that due to the spinning action, they are unlikely to slip by virtue of following the biner.

Otherwise get a collection of old kong screwgates and add one to a thin wire gate to balance it out?
duglash
1-Oct-2014
11:20:40 AM
I saw someone shake the bracket off the bolt on Yesterday's Rooster not once but twice just the other day. She had clipped it with a solid gate biner but it was just too thin. She ended up clipping it with two biners but maybe a screwgate would work. Definitely, definitely dangerous with thin modern biners, even solid gates. Make sure you check each time you clip a carrot.

Snacks
1-Oct-2014
11:30:08 AM
On 30/09/2014 martym wrote:
>Otherwise get a collection of old kong screwgates and add one to a thin
>wire gate to balance it out?

+1

I take a couple draws with aluminium oval shaped krabs on the end. Snug.

shortman
1-Oct-2014
11:37:30 AM
On 1/10/2014 duglash wrote:
> Make sure you check each time you
>clip a carrot.

Gawd. This sounds horrifying. Sometimes there is only so much jingling you can do.

Better to figure it out before you leave the ground, :)

There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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