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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
Author
Metolius Anchor Chain?
martym
11/03/2014
11:13:36 PM
Anyone seen / used / heard about this?
http://www.gearexpress.com/metolius-anchor-chain.html

It basically looks like the PAS (Personal Anchor System) with the word "Personal" removed..

In fact, my guess is someone was racking it in the shop and remarked - hey, that kind of looks like a two-point anchor system... next thing you know they're marketing the exact same product with a different purpose in mind - smart manufacture/marketing strategy...
They didn't even change the longer loop.

phillipivan
12/03/2014
8:18:34 AM
Yes they did. The longer loop doesn't have a twist to make it girth hitch cleanly. But, so?

ajfclark
12/03/2014
8:22:16 AM
I saw the Grivel guy using their PAS clone in this configuration: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VlY0h3-vsNo#t=3m25s
mikllaw
12/03/2014
9:51:31 AM
More junk to carry. Along with daisy chains and cordelettes.

Macciza
12/03/2014
9:53:57 AM
Looks somewhat impossible to get any equalisation with it . . ..
martym
12/03/2014
10:37:32 AM
On 12/03/2014 Macciza wrote:
>Looks somewhat impossible to get any equalisation with it . . ..

That's what I was wondering.... it also ends up (probably) with a single loop for an anchor - seriously why would you use it over a sling or cord?
Just weird!

shortman
12/03/2014
10:59:27 AM
Actually 12 single loops.
patto
12/03/2014
12:00:25 PM
On 12/03/2014 mikllaw wrote:
>More junk to carry. Along with daisy chains and cordelettes.

Agreed. But it is rare to see climbers without cordelettes these days.

Using the rope for an anchor is becoming a lost art.

sbm
12/03/2014
2:21:36 PM
I've heard many experienced people rag on cordelletes from ODH to Bulti. I can and do build anchors with the rope in situations and would take on anyone in a clove hitch tying race.

But a big length of cord is a tool I like and will continue to use for anchors. It's simpler, faster, neater, saves slings and draws for leading, easy belay escape for block leading and abseiling, and a good compromise for SRENE (or what's left of its relevance). Plus it doubles as tat and as a big prusik of actually useful length.
kieranl
12/03/2014
2:35:57 PM
On 12/03/2014 sbm wrote:
>But a big length of cord is a tool I like and will continue to use for
>anchors. It's simpler, faster, neater, saves slings and draws for leading,
>easy belay escape for block leading and abseiling, and a good compromise
>for SRENE (or what's left of its relevance). Plus it doubles as tat and
>as a big prusik of actually useful length.
Whatever works for you at belays is fine but I pick up one thing. A piece of gear that is used to build your belay is not a prusik as it's often inaccessible in the belay chain. If the rope comes tight and you need a prusik to assist your partner, that thing in the belay may as well be on the moon, you'd have to demolish the belay to get at it. A prusik isn't used for anything that means it is no longer at hand for use as a priusik, else it won't be there when you need it.
Probably not a big point, you just oversold the big sling benefits a bit.
martym
12/03/2014
2:59:33 PM
On 12/03/2014 shortman wrote:
>Actually 12 single loops.

Only one of which will be attached to your central point - perhaps two - but the rest would just be dangling or bunched up persumably?

Pat
12/03/2014
6:48:43 PM
On 12/03/2014 patto wrote:

>
>Using the rope for an anchor is becoming a lost art.

Not a lost art - I just climb multi pitch with people who don't lead, so due to lack of leading partners Cord is easiest in that case. Agreed rope is better and quicker if you are swinging leads.

shortman
13/03/2014
8:08:18 AM


You could do all sorts of smart things with these....

The good Dr
13/03/2014
9:26:51 AM
On 12/03/2014 Macciza wrote:
>Looks somewhat impossible to get any equalisation with it . . ..

Simple if you know what you are doing.

Have the single set of loops permanently on the harness and carry a webelette for setting up belays. Ceretainly faster than using the rope. Just have to remember that there is no one ideal solution for all situations and know how to use all the equipment at hand.

Climboholic
13/03/2014
9:32:20 AM
On 13/03/2014 shortman wrote:
>
>You could do all sorts of smart things with these....
>

I never realised how much I need one of these things! Particularly for equalising 3 pieces of gear.

The whole concept of these PAS chains assumes that the user is an idiot and might clip around the unrated part of daisy chain (clip through twice). Smart marketing! Design an idiot resistant product that weighs and costs more than double what it needs to and market it to idiots. The key is to call it a PAS instead of an IAS (Idiot Attaching Sling) or ADD (Anti Darwinism Device).
martym
13/03/2014
10:08:09 AM
On 13/03/2014 shortman wrote:
>You could do all sorts of smart things with these....
>

Wow now I'm sold! I bet you could even dangle a trangia off one and cook lunch while belaying...

shortman
13/03/2014
10:19:17 AM
On 13/03/2014 Climboholic wrote:

>I never realised how much I need one of these things! Particularly for
>equalising 3 pieces of gear.


Easily solved...


Now this is a work of art!

Climboholic
13/03/2014
10:29:00 AM
So simple and adaptable!
Howsie
13/03/2014
1:38:11 PM
I was recently climbing in New Zealand and the owner of Bryce's rock climbing shop was raving about them in terms of speed and ease of use. I must admit I was tempted.

shortman
13/03/2014
1:45:31 PM
On 13/03/2014 Howsie wrote:
>I was recently climbing in New Zealand and the owner of Bryce's rock climbing
>shop was raving about them in terms of speed and ease of use. I must admit
>I was tempted.

Are you being facetious H? :)

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
There are 44 messages in this topic.

 

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