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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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All you sandstone pansies from the gluies...

egosan

29/08/2012
1:37:37 PM

Need to harden up and quit resorting to the easy option of bolting. No more of this whaaa, the rock is too soft for trad protection arguements. Feast your eyes:

http://www.horyinfo.cz/view.php?cisloclanku=2012070003&nazevclanku=ufo-na-festaku

To cool, here is some guy whipping on to one.

http://youtu.be/pOsM2LIj9ns

miguel75

29/08/2012
1:44:55 PM

They look radtastic and some of the comments are absolute classics;)

egosan

29/08/2012
1:48:16 PM

and cheap, 40 bucks for the biggest one.

miguel75

29/08/2012
1:52:19 PM

They're getting even better @ $40... I reckon if you used them for aid they wouldn't even hurt if you popped one whilst bounce testing:)

Superstu

29/08/2012
2:44:25 PM

Looks like a variation/improvement on the knotted rope technique

http://elllocesaqui.wordpress.com/2011/08/01/no-nuts-climb-with-knots/

The sandstone in the elbsandsteingebirge (and I assume the czech side of those mountains too, but i havent bin across da border) forms in ways that creates neat little pockets in the cracks, so the knotted protection isn't so crazy as it appears. Metal chocks/hexes/cams would probably chew up the soft rock with constant setting/unsetting even if they aren't fallen on much.

Can't say I actually fell on any knotted pro, but I did see other people take whippers on them.

Useful for gluies sandstone? Maybe, but the sandstone here doesn't form the same way, you don't get those little scoopy pockety bits forming along the crack lines. Plus there are no qualms about using metal protection. About the only time I get spooked about pro in synney sandstone is when it gets crumbly inside the crack, or the whole block/feature looks fragile, in which case I can't see the soft pro helping. The good pro in synney sandstone I reckon is in the horizontal breaks or the almost- parallel-sided vertical cracks in good rock; both which "seem" to take nuts and cams well.

Interested to hear what others think, esp those with more years on the synney sandstone than bumbly me.

pmonks

29/08/2012
2:56:07 PM

On 29/08/2012 egosan wrote:
>To cool, here is some guy whipping on to one.
>
>http://youtu.be/pOsM2LIj9ns

Jeebus I must have had too much to drink! Watching that video gave me tunnel vision and everything kept wobbling around and fading in and out of focus!

There are 6 messages in this topic.