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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Dropped biner and tape harness's
bjorniam
10/08/2012
2:38:55 PM
It being a Friday arvo I can see some smack being talked about this, but any serious discussion on these controversial issues would also be appreciated.

A review of where the 'when to drop dropped biners' issue is up to, http://fatcanyoners.org/bush-guide/dropped-carabiners/

Somewhat less controversial my favorite methods of making a tape harness (yes not advisable for climbing but i have belayed and seconded in these without death and with holding some leader falls), http://fatcanyoners.org/bush-guide/alternate-tape-harness/

Actually I'll also link to my post about the purcell prussik, which I've not seen used in Oz but am a massive fan of (plus its cheap), http://fatcanyoners.org/bush-guide/purcell-prusik/

Another good way to pass the friday arvo http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJhkhmgZXRk&feature=related

Troll away!
Paul
10/08/2012
3:43:25 PM
On 10/08/2012 bjorniam wrote:
>It being a Friday arvo I can see some smack being talked about this, but
>any serious discussion on these controversial issues would also be appreciated.
>
>A review of where the 'when to drop dropped biners' issue is up to, http://fatcanyoners.o
>g/bush-guide/dropped-carabiners/
>
>Somewhat less controversial my favorite methods of making a tape harness
>(yes not advisable for climbing but i have belayed and seconded in these
>without death and with holding some leader falls), http://fatcanyoners.org/bush-guide/alte
>nate-tape-harness/
>
>Actually I'll also link to my post about the purcell prussik, which I've
>not seen used in Oz but am a massive fan of (plus its cheap), http://fatcanyoners.org/bush
>guide/purcell-prusik/
>
>Another good way to pass the friday arvo http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJhkhmgZXRk&featu
>e=related
>
>Troll away!


I am a huge fan of the purcell prusik and almost always have one on my harness
technogeekery
10/08/2012
8:37:10 PM
fatcanyoners = cool site. nice work guys.

Goshen
11/08/2012
10:47:04 AM
Excellent; this is all I needed to know :-)

From the link on dropped biners:
"In a test conducted by REI, thirty carabiner bodies (half ovals, half Ds) were each dropped six times onto a concrete floor from a height of 33 ft. (10 m). Following the drops, their open-gate strength was measured and compared to thirty control samples from the same production batch that had not been dropped. The statistical result was no loss of strength."

Also, I love the hint that dropped biners may actually be (statistically insignificant) STRONGER! than undropped biners; what a great discovery!

Olbert
11/08/2012
5:06:01 PM
To anyone that would know, whats the deal with the triple figure 8 on the wierdo prussic?

stugang
11/08/2012
5:23:18 PM
On 11/08/2012 Olbert wrote:
>To anyone that would know, whats the deal with the triple figure 8 on the
>wierdo prussic?

You've got it all wrong, you need to ask for help from people who don't know.

Its pretty obvious what it is....its an extendable toothbrush holder that is quite useful on multi pitch boulder problems.
egosan
11/08/2012
5:33:03 PM
On 11/08/2012 Olbert wrote:
>To anyone that would know, whats the deal with the triple figure 8 on the
>wierdo prussic?

The frost 8 turns one length of cord into two closed loops terminating at the same knot. You can achieve the same effect for the purpose of tying a purcell prusik with a single figure 8 on a bight and a fisherman's to close the second loop.

There are 7 messages in this topic.

 

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