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15-Jun-2012 12:41:57 PM
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has anyone else seen this site -
http://www.myoan.net/climbart/climbforcecal.html
or something similar?
was trying to resolve this with how Dean Potter manages to fall on Tombstone and none of his gear pops?
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15-Jun-2012 1:28:02 PM
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interesting calculator. I understood the formula for calculating fall factors as 'length of fall divided by length of rope out', which would make a 4ft fall (2ft above last bolt) on 20ft of rope a fall factor of 0.2, while the calculator says that a 4ft fall on 20ft of rope would be a fall factor of 1.1, with the same fall on 40ft & 60ft of rope would be fall factors of 1.05 & 1.03 respectively. either the calculated factors are way off or my formula's a little simplistic?
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15-Jun-2012 1:29:02 PM
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Well, it believes that falling from 5 metres above your last piece of gear with 40 metres of rope in the system is a factor 1.125 fall... So I wouldn't be putting too much credence in its results.
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15-Jun-2012 1:49:46 PM
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From the page source I'd say the calculation is wrong:
form.fallfact.value=(lanch+lrope)/lrope
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15-Jun-2012 2:30:51 PM
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A brief discussion, including the aforementioned calculator, here on supertopo;
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1073010
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15-Jun-2012 3:19:54 PM
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thanks for this link.. wow.. what an education.. It was interesting to see how the knot that you tie into also falls into the equation.. so I found one other calculator (for education purposes.. not for real use) on that site..
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