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toprope solo system


Nayda

23-May-2012
12:05:38 PM

for the keen punters - a recent blog post from Steph Davis on her setup - http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/rope-solo-system/


ajfclark

23-May-2012
12:50:12 PM

As pointed out in the comments, that system breaks a number of Petzl's recommendations on self belay systems.


pmonks

24-May-2012
7:54:13 AM

I find it hard to believe that the cam on a mini-traxion would accidentally open in normal usage scenarios - they're hard enough to open deliberately.

Regardless, redundancy is key to avoid injury or death as a result of a one of these "plausible, but unlikely" events occurring - Petzl's recommendation to use 2 different types of device is a good one.

mikllaw

24-May-2012
8:51:19 AM

being lazy and scared, I use a grigri and tie an occasional knot in the rope below.


Miguel75

24-May-2012
8:52:08 AM

I second Mikl's view. A grigri works well for me...


nmonteith

24-May-2012
9:46:36 AM

On 24/05/2012 Miguel75 wrote:
>I second Mikl's view. A grigri works well for me...

I third it.


Superstu

24-May-2012
9:58:37 AM

You just pull the slack through with a free hand every few moves?


nmonteith

24-May-2012
10:28:13 AM

On 24/05/2012 Superstu wrote:
>You just pull the slack through with a free hand every few moves?

Yep. When I'm leading I have to place gear and pull the rope up to clip in. Same same.


Nayda

24-May-2012
11:15:21 AM

On 24/05/2012 mikllaw wrote:
>being lazy and scared, I use a grigri and tie an occasional knot in the
>rope below.

& here come the stupid questions: having never rope soloed, I'm guessing gents that you're tied in to one end of a standard TR setup with a dynamic running through krabs off an anchor, attaching the grigri to the belay end of the rope & your harness, as opposed to Stephs single-line static setup? Are you running a mini-traxion above the grigri, or just a grigri?

TonyB

24-May-2012
11:30:15 AM

"Prohibited" does sound a bit silly but Petzl are probably keeping themselves covered:

"Self-belaying is prohibited!

We cannot ignore the fact that some people use the GRIGRI as a self-belay device. Many internet sites give tips on modifying your device for this use. Above all, this technique increases the risks to the climber. Firstly, the climber does not hold the braking side of the rope.

Additionally, in case of a fall, the GRIGRI can be blocked against the rock, the positioning system (positioning strap), or other, thus negating its braking function. The climber could fall to the ground. Finally, remember that any product modification outside of pETZL facilities is formally prohibited (see Instructions for use).

Self-belaying with the GRIGRI is prohibited."

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/grigri-experience#GE-autoassurage

widewetandslippery

24-May-2012
11:42:17 AM

You can use a grigri on a single line with a wieghted rope.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

24-May-2012
11:49:24 AM


Superstu

24-May-2012
12:18:54 PM

On 24/05/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>On 24/05/2012 Superstu wrote:
>>You just pull the slack through with a free hand every few moves?
>
>Yep. When I'm leading I have to place gear and pull the rope up to clip
>in. Same same.

Some hardcore dude suggested to me in yosemite to save time on walls (when there is no pig to haul) to tie the lead line off at belays, let the seconder start jugging, and start off leading the next pitch by self belaying using a grigri. Never got around to experimenting with it myself but it seemed way too simple! Not exactly sure how to get the rest of the rack up once the seconder arrives at the belay unless a second rope was in tow. But as long as the pitches are 5.9 or C1 i could see it shaving lots of time (assuming when your seconder gets jack of jugging everything and wants a lead they dont slow the boat!)


IdratherbeclimbingM9

24-May-2012
12:25:10 PM

>hardcore (snip etc)
~> also known as 'short-fixing'; where a zip line is commonly used, and often also an expanded rack.

If you are still within correct amount of ropelength by the time 2nd gets to the previous belay, then you can also tie off to a piece and pull the gear up on the rope-tail/retrieved slack...

This method is still used when hauling is involved. The 2nd gets to the belay and hauls the previous pitch, while the leader is still roped-soloing...


Superstu

24-May-2012
12:34:35 PM

I could only really see it being faster if the next pitch is easy aid or the last pitch was aid. If the climbing was 5.8 or below we found simulclimbing very fast. Just gotta remember the seconder must not fall, ever!


IdratherbeclimbingM9

24-May-2012
12:42:07 PM

It works if the next pitch is hard aid too, as the leader usually isn't too far out due being slowed by the hardness factor.

widewetandslippery

24-May-2012
1:05:47 PM

now I know this sounds rude but the most important thing in lead solo or top rope solo is making sure who is the man and who is the hand on the device. This has killed People

One Day Hero

24-May-2012
1:21:31 PM

On 24/05/2012 Superstu wrote:
>IIf the climbing was 5.8 or below we found simulclimbing
>very fast. Just gotta remember the seconder must not fall, ever!

Oh, there's a neat little trick for that too.............it also breaks petzl's rules, but makes simulclimbing a lot more comfortable.


pmonks

25-May-2012
7:10:11 AM

On 24/05/2012 Nayda wrote:
>& here come the stupid questions: having never rope soloed, I'm guessing
>gents that you're tied in to one end of a standard TR setup with a dynamic
>running through krabs off an anchor, attaching the grigri to the belay
>end of the rope & your harness, as opposed to Stephs single-line static
>setup? Are you running a mini-traxion above the grigri, or just a grigri?

Only just started playing this game myself, but that's not what I've been doing. Instead I set it up so the rope is fixed to the top anchors (it's tied off to the anchor, not running through carabiners). I also halve the rope so I effectively have two ropes hanging down the climb (so far I've only been top rope soloing climbs under 25m high - there's almost nothing taller than that around here anyway). I then stick one device (mini traxions) on each rope, tie the ropes to something heavy (e.g. my backpack), and up I go.

I originally tried with a grigri on one rope and a mini-traxion on the other, but found the grigri a pain in the ar5e compared to the traxions, so now I just use two of those (yes, yes, I know I'm a hypocrit). I still have to take up a grigri though, in case I need to abseil off from halfway up (can't easily do that with a non-autolocking device like an ATC or whatever).

I should also mention that I'm still getting used to the system so may refine it a bit, but so far I've been surprised how well it works - the mini traxions feed beautifully, provided there's a bit of weight on the bottom of the rope.


pmonks

25-May-2012
7:14:50 AM

On 24/05/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>now I know this sounds rude but the most important thing in lead solo or
>top rope solo is making sure who is the man and who is the hand on the
>device. This has killed People

^^^^^ what WWS said X 1000!

It'd be really easy to rig the devices around the wrong way (twice, if you're using two of the same device) and end up in a world of hurt!

I noticed the likelihood of this the first day I was out mucking about with the new rig, and have decided (for now) that I'm going to sit on the rope to test everything, before leaving the ground each time.

There are 25 messages in this topic.