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Advice for rack additions


Nova

17-Mar-2012
3:28:17 AM

So i live in Ballarat and mainly climb at Mt Beckworth but also get out to You Yangs, Camels Hump and when i really CBF'd driving... Devils kitchen (well aware how shit it is) but the traverse around the water hole when its empty can be an easy few hours "bouldering". Planing to also get out to Falcons Lookout, Ben Nevis and of course Grampians and Araps!

Currently not climbing at all

but was leading trad and sport up to low 20's while also doing a bit of top roping and some multi pitch.

I would like a bit of advise from anyone who has the time (and patience) on what would be some useful additions to my rack for these adventures and any others that would be worthwhile around the Ballarat area.

I currently have:

BD Camelots .3-2
BD Stopper Set Pro 1-13
Metolious Curve Hex 1-10
Figure 8
BD ATC
GRIGRI 2
Wildcountry Ropeman (for some top-rope soloing used as a backup for the GRIGRI)
2x Petzl pulleys
Petzl Ascender
15 assorted Biners
10 quick draws
10 bolt plates
10 assorted slings
34m 9mm static
60m 10mm static
50m 11mm dynamic

As i sometimes climb with 3 others (who have no gear) i also have 4 harnesses, 4 sets of shoes, 2 helmets and 2 chalk bags... ohh and a first aid kit :P

I was thinking another longer rope and some larger cams, worthwhile? any other ideas?

anthonycuskelly

17-Mar-2012
6:19:48 AM

What do you find yourself running out of?

For Araps, I'd suggest more wires, either WC Rocks, DMM Wallnuts, of DMM Offsets. I find a #3 cam comes in handy.

When you say "assorted" slings... I tend to carry a bunch of 60cm slings tripled up as long draws, and a couple of 120cm ones for chockstones, massive extension, anchors & the like.


cruze

17-Mar-2012
7:06:48 AM

#3 cam


JamesMc

17-Mar-2012
7:56:23 AM

Do you find that your rope is too short? If not then i don`t think you need a longer rope to lug around. Agree about the #3 cam.


Pat

17-Mar-2012
8:07:06 AM

For longer multi-pitches - perhaps a set of RP's, and you could double up on the wires with something cheap. 10 draws seems a little light on. How do you build belays on multi pitches? Perhaps a long sling /cordelette (tech tips has info on this) might help if you are not swinging leads. Ditto the #3 cam.

simone

17-Mar-2012
9:10:42 AM

On 17/03/2012 Pat wrote:
>For longer multi-pitches - perhaps a set of RP's,

Wendy would say that they are essential.

Don't believe M9 when he tells you that ettriers are essential.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

17-Mar-2012
9:57:09 AM

On 17/03/2012 simey. wrote:
>On 17/03/2012 Pat wrote:
>>For longer multi-pitches - perhaps a set of RP's,
>
>Wendy would say that they are essential.
>
>Don't believe M9 when he tells you that ettriers are essential.

When are you ever going to see the light simey.?
Heh, heh, heh.

~> Actually in answer to original post, I would add prussik loops and larger cams a long way ahead of any aid gear such as etts!

On 17/03/2012 83nf15h wrote;
>(snip)
>but was leading trad and sport up to low 20's while also doing a bit of top roping and some multi pitch.

>I would like a bit of advise from anyone who has the time (and patience) on what would be some useful additions to my rack for these adventures and any others that would be worthwhile around the Ballarat area.

>I currently have:

>BD Camelots .3-2
>BD Stopper Set Pro 1-13
>Metolious Curve Hex 1-10
>Figure 8
>BD ATC
>GRIGRI 2
>Wildcountry Ropeman (for some top-rope soloing used as a backup for the GRIGRI)
>2x Petzl pulleys
>Petzl Ascender
>15 assorted Biners
>10 quick draws
>10 bolt plates
>10 assorted slings
>34m 9mm static
>60m 10mm static
>50m 11mm dynamic

>As i sometimes climb with 3 others (who have no gear) i also have 4 harnesses, 4 sets of shoes, 2 helmets and 2 chalk bags... ohh and a first aid kit :P

>I was thinking another longer rope and some larger cams, worthwhile? any other ideas?

Hmm.
You mention 'adventure' and 'multipitch' in your post, as well as 'Ballarat area'.

I would suggest taking a longer term view of your gear, as it is likely that you will climb all sorts of areas and rock types before you give the game away, if ever, and most of your pro will last the distance.

I wouldn't consider a longer rope to be especially advantageous (just yet), given the amount of rope you already have; however if you are intent on getting rope, then I'd suggest a set of double ropes because double rope technique greatly increases your flexibility when climbing multipitch & particularly adventure routes.

If you don't have many locking style krabs, then at least a few of these wouldn't go astray on any rack.

You have only one ascender? I suspect it to be a typo, but if not, then obtaining it's matching mate is a useful addition if you intend on doing much 'jumaring'.

You might also consider (if you don't already have them), a nut tool, gear sling, smaller cams, cordalette/s, and possibly a daisy chain (or similar), for attachment to belays on multipitch; ... and if gear freakery is your thing, then start considering aid gear!

~> Sell your Figure 8 to simey. to help pay for your new additions!
;-)


Sabu

17-Mar-2012
10:04:25 AM

A few more draws (perhaps some nice long ones) to get you up to 12-14 draws. A cordellete. Maybe some RPs or other smaller nuts. Depending on what you're climbing some smaller cams (ie c3's) could also be useful.

widewetandslippery

17-Mar-2012
11:23:53 AM

I know an attractive woman who had c cups and had her rack added to up to DD. She now looks like an exploded sausage on a hot plate.

Really how big a rack do you need. Its your choice and you should be the one to decide what's lacking

dmnz

17-Mar-2012
1:01:04 PM

On 17/03/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>I know an attractive woman who had c cups and had her rack added to up
>to DD. She now looks like an exploded sausage on a hot plate.
>
>Really how big a rack do you need. Its your choice and you should be the
>one to decide what's lacking

see, more is not necessarily better...most rock routes I wouldn't want anything more than 60m

I would look at another set of wires...maybe DMM or WC

lighter QDs...namely wiregates...I like the WCs

get bigger cams at least up to #3 or even #4 and then double up the middles (0.5-2) or at least 1 and 2 but maybe that's more a NZ thing

ditch the figure 8...unless you climb with people who don't wear helmets...


Nova

17-Mar-2012
5:00:44 PM

On 17/03/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>I know an attractive woman who had c cups and had her rack added to up
>to DD. She now looks like an exploded sausage on a hot plate.
>
>Really how big a rack do you need. Its your choice and you should be the
>one to decide what's lacking

Worry not, i am still the one deciding just looking for some good ideas :D

I do also have a nut tool, a bit of cordalette(more would be useful), a BD? Talon and a daisy chain.

I like the look of the DMM wires! I was wondering if a set of Tricams would be worth it?

#3 and #4 cams are on the wish list along with doubling up the mid range cams, just need to work some more OT!

Are the Omega Pacific link cams as useful as they seem they may be?

I assume RP's are rigging plates? If so then i can see how they would be handy.


Sabu

17-Mar-2012
5:16:29 PM

On 17/03/2012 83nf15h wrote:
>I was wondering if a set of Tricams
>would be worth it?
No!

>I assume RP's are rigging plates? If so then i can see how they would
>be handy.
No, they are micro/small nuts that are a different style to standard nuts and made in right here in melbourne.
See here http://www.rockhardware.com.au/Order.asp?Action=Group&MainGroup=Passive%20Protection&Category=Brass%20RPs

and here for the history http://rockandice.com/articles/how-to-climb/article/1129-the-guy-whose-nuts-revolutionized-climbing-rp


Nova

17-Mar-2012
5:19:07 PM

Hmm very nice!

One Day Hero

17-Mar-2012
5:27:40 PM

On 17/03/2012 Sabu wrote:
>On 17/03/2012 83nf15h wrote:
>>I was wondering if a set of Tricams
>>would be worth it?
>No!
>
I have an ongoing bet regarding Tricams. Anyone who can show me a placement on a route which takes a tricam but not a normal bit of pro gets a beer.........if I can fit a cam/nut/hex into your tricam slot, I get a beer.*#%

* maximum of one beer per placement.....15 people can't drink from the same slot

# the famous pink tricam slot on Terminal Drive has been taken

% if there's good normal pro closer than 0.5m it doesn't count


Nova

17-Mar-2012
5:38:12 PM

So i had a look at those RP's and now i want them! Steve seems to only have a few left so i am thinking of hitting buy on the bellow:

RP Size 4. Only 2 left!
RP Size 5. Only 5 left!
Set of 11 "Wallnuts" (1 to 11) N/B NEW Anodized colours!!! New "lighter" version.
Black Diamond Padded Gear Sling. (Blue)
Black Diamond Camelot C4 - Size 3 - Blue
Black Diamond Camelot C4 - Size 4 - Gray
Metolius X-Comp "Bent Gate". x5
Black Diamond Neutrino Rack Pack. (6 diffrent coloured wire gates)
Blue Water 25mm Tube Tape - Per Metre - Blue. (1834kg) x10m
Metolius "SIMULATOR" CNC Training Board.


Sabu

17-Mar-2012
6:20:39 PM

There's a reason size 4 & 5 are left, its the other sizes you really want! :P

One Day Hero

17-Mar-2012
7:27:01 PM

On 17/03/2012 83nf15h wrote:

>i am thinking of hitting buy on the bellow:
>
>RP Size 4. Only 2 left!
Maybe, but it'll only occasionally go in where your #2 rock doesn't. I only have RP #'s 1,2 and 3

>RP Size 5. Only 5 left!
I wouldn't

>Set of 11 "Wallnuts" (1 to 11) N/B NEW Anodized colours!!! New "lighter"
>version.
I don't carry 2 full sets of nuts any more. Especially if you have smallish hexs, the big wires overlap and its overkill.

>Black Diamond Padded Gear Sling. (Blue)
What is this? The 1970's?

>Black Diamond Camelot C4 - Size 3 - Blue
I carry one of these most of the time

>Black Diamond Camelot C4 - Size 4 - Gray
I don't carry one of these most of the time

>Metolius X-Comp "Bent Gate". x5
For clipping carrots? Otherwise why not get light biners? I keep 12 straight gates for carrot-fests in the Blueys, 6 or so seem to do the trick everywhere else

>Black Diamond Neutrino Rack Pack. (6 diffrent coloured wire gates)
Seems like a pretty good deal

>Blue Water 25mm Tube Tape - Per Metre - Blue. (1834kg) x10m
What's that for? Slackling? I don't carry 10m of tape around with me when I'm climbing.

>Metolius "SIMULATOR" CNC Training Board.
I bet you can make one just as good for 20 bucks!

Wendy

18-Mar-2012
12:29:16 PM

On 17/03/2012 83nf15h wrote:

>but was leading trad and sport up to low 20's while also doing a bit of
>top roping and some multi pitch.

You were climbing early 20s trad on that rack?? In fact, you are capable of climbing early 20s trad and you need advice on what gear to buy and haven't heard of rps? I'm a little confused.

Go and climb a few things and see what you run out of. I would rarely leave the ground on any reasonably graded route without a double set of nuts to 8 plus single 9, maybe 10 and an emergency rp or 2, cams from green alien to 3 camalot, doubles of mid range or anything looking likely to be used a lot, bigger if it looks likely, bonus rps if it looks likely or Simey's been hassling me. i never bother with hexes, tricams, ball nuts, offsets and all that wierd shit people rave about. i should start a Damo like beer campaign on offsets. I carry a fair few slings and more like 15 quickdraws. Lightweight everything I can get my hands on. No point buying clunky old school heavy gear these days. I use a 50m rope pretty standardly. I'd get a set of double 50s before I bothered buying a longer single.

widewetandslippery

18-Mar-2012
2:34:16 PM

if you climb on solid rock buy some angle iron, a drill a hacksaw and some dynabolts


Nova

18-Mar-2012
4:54:34 PM

On 18/03/2012 Wendy wrote:
>On 17/03/2012 83nf15h wrote:
>
>>but was leading trad and sport up to low 20's while also doing a bit
>of
>>top roping and some multi pitch.
>
>You were climbing early 20s trad on that rack?? In fact, you are capable
>of climbing early 20s trad and you need advice on what gear to buy and
>haven't heard of rps? I'm a little confused.
>
>Go and climb a few things and see what you run out of. I would rarely
>leave the ground on any reasonably graded route without a double set of
>nuts to 8 plus single 9, maybe 10 and an emergency rp or 2, cams from green
>alien to 3 camalot, doubles of mid range or anything looking likely to
>be used a lot, bigger if it looks likely, bonus rps if it looks likely
>or Simey's been hassling me. i never bother with hexes, tricams, ball nuts,
>offsets and all that wierd shit people rave about. i should start a Damo
>like beer campaign on offsets. I carry a fair few slings and more like
>15 quickdraws. Lightweight everything I can get my hands on. No point
>buying clunky old school heavy gear these days. I use a 50m rope pretty
>standardly. I'd get a set of double 50s before I bothered buying a longer
>single.

Thanks for the advice Wendy, i was able to lead the low 20's with that rack as they were very short! mainly under 20m.

And most of the things mentioned i knew that i needed but the ones i did not (RP's included :P) look very useful!

One of the main things i wanted to know is what else was going to be useful for Araps and Grampians as i have not yet been.

There are 39 messages in this topic.