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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
New Climber - Buying gear. 11-Jan-2012 At 12:26:47 PM cruze
Great to hear that you are on the way!

A few humble suggestions if I may - perhaps look at getting sorted with enough stuff to top rope (naturally a rope, but also slings of various sizes) and think about heading back to Araps and top roping everything off the Plaque Buttress (you can walk to the top around the back). This will build on the knowledge that you may already have of anchors and how to equalise pieces. If you don't know about anchors then you really shouldn't leave the ground. You will not need much if any gear (wires, hexes or cams) to set up a top rope there or at Werribee Gorge if you equalise 2-3 bomb-proof bollards (natural rock or man made posts at Werribee). Buy John Long's Anchors book. Read it cover to cover and get out there on flat ground and try equalising trees or bricks or whatever.

Also, and this is personal preference, but I think that you should buy a helmet. I wont say any more because between the topics of helmets, bolting and who is the biggest knob, that is 95% of the content of the Chockstone forum.

On the topic of grades, I will only say that after 17 years climbing I believe that I can climb "around the 17 - 20 grade". But I can do it on lead, trad or sports, onsight, on every type of rock I have ever climbed be it single or multipitch in crap weather and good. Just be careful when you start out thinking that grades mean anything. Read the interview with Malcolm (HB) Matheson on this website where he discusses his progression in grades. He has climbed seriously hard for a long time and yet started by building up slowly through the grades, consolidating at each level. Of course, falling on top rope isn't a big deal (so long as your belayer knows how to belay and the anchor is good!) but once you start trying to lead assume that the gear you will place will be needed and don't rush placing it.

Oh yeah, back on topic - you can buy locally and generally receive superior personal service (eg Rock Hardware, click on the left of this page) or you can try and save money buying overseas. Perhaps think about the anchors book first and then get a variety of slings (or make your own tape ones if you know how).

Have fun and enjoy!

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