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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
Rope Recommendations 9-Jan-2012 At 12:21:18 PM cruze
Message
My recommendations for 95%+ of all of the following:
Sport: single 60m
Multipitch Trad on clean rock: single 60 m
"Easy" peaks with snow plods: single 60 m
Multipitch alpine rock: doubles 50-60m.

Unless you are very strong and fit and/or chopper in everywhere or stroll out of the chairlift to the base of the route, ropes are heavy. A set of doubles will be heavier than a single. I don't know anyone that uses a set of 70m doubles in the mtns and I reckon it is asking for an alpine clusterf++k. Ask yourself what you are likely to do and even if you are likely to rap often in the mtns. If you are a beginner as you say then I doubt you are going to be pushing your technical ability and needing to do long raps.

If you are climbing on rambling broken ground (mixed peaks) then I doubt you would be needing/wanting to do 70 m pitches.

I do know people that take one 70 m half rope in the mtns to save weight. If glacier travel with several people on the rope and/or climbing clean snowslopes (ie no sharp edges) are the go then perhaps you can get away with one half rope and treat it as a single to save weight. I know people that do this but it is a compromise as taught 8+mm ropes cut a lot quicker than a taught 9+ or 10+ mm.

At the end of the day it is all personal preference but my advice for someone starting out is to keep it simple.

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