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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Author
Best Cheap Bolt Drill For Sydney Sandstone
michaelc54
20/10/2011
12:56:24 PM
What is the 'Best Cheap Bolt Hole Drill For Sydney Sandstone' and drill bit for placing stainless steel carrots?

Something that will do about 6 holes on a charge or battery - from Bunnings or similar?

rodw
20/10/2011
1:01:22 PM
Take ya pick....

http://www.sydneytools.com.au/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=326&cat=Cordless+Rotary+Hammer+Drills

You get what you pay for, you might get enough out of a 14V drill in Sydney sandstone for 6 bolts???
dalai
20/10/2011
1:07:54 PM
On 20/10/2011 michaelc54 wrote:
>What is the 'Best Cheap Bolt Hole Drill For Sydney Sandstone' and drill
>bit for placing stainless steel carrots?

Hand drill?

nmonteith
20/10/2011
1:17:50 PM
On 20/10/2011 michaelc54 wrote:
>What is the 'Best Cheap Bolt Hole Drill For Sydney Sandstone' and drill
>bit for placing stainless steel carrots?

You're not seriously considering placing bash in carrots are you? Please please don't, they are very hard to install correctly, don't hold as much as glue-ins and are generally considered by the current climbing generation to be dangerous.

climbingfool
20/10/2011
2:07:29 PM
De Rossi have good prices
widewetandslippery
20/10/2011
3:25:23 PM
Most people who buy shit drills either stop bolting or get a good one. Fools link above points to a well priced 36v bosch

harold
20/10/2011
5:32:55 PM
I recently bought a Ryobi one plus 18V Rotary hammer drill, $170 from Bunnings skin only. I already had battery setup from another drill (the batteries fit all their cordless tools). A pretty cheap option if your only putting a handfull of bolts in now and then, which is what I will be doing. I already had 2 1.4Ah batteries but found these only give 2 or 3 bolts each. So bought off Ebay from China 2* 2.4 Ah used batteries for $100. I think they are warranty returns from the factory. These gave about 5 bolts each. This is in hard granite so maybe double that for soft sandstone. I have only used it for about 12 bolts so don't know about its longevity, but so far works fine.

wallwombat
20/10/2011
9:44:53 PM
Neil and me had a lengthy debate about carrots and he eventually won me over.

If you are going to use SS machine bolts, glue them in. I still occasionally use bash in carrots but only in really out off the way places and only if I am climbing ground up. If it turns out to be a great climb, I return and bolt it properly. Unfortunately, this rarely happens.

There is constant work being done to rebolt climbs in the Sydney area, replacing dodgey carrots with glue-in rings or Us. No need to set that good work back.


Robb
21/10/2011
9:24:04 AM
if you cant afford to bolt something properly then dont even bother!
michaelc54
21/10/2011
9:28:01 AM
We are looking at placing bolts at a couple of inner city locations to open up a couple of quite nice 15m outcrops for more frequent use.

From the perspective of cost and convenience we are considering using glue in machine bolts prepared as per www.safercliffs.org/code/bolt_guide.html for both top anchors and runners.

BoulderBaby
21/10/2011
9:35:06 AM
This should be in safer cliffs - There should be a mentor ship program when it comes to bolting so shit bolts just don't go in.
gfdonc
21/10/2011
10:46:15 AM
Carrots are outdated and not as safe as a fixed hanger.
Why not spend an extra $3 and do it properly?

nmonteith
21/10/2011
10:54:20 AM
On 21/10/2011 michaelc54 wrote:
>We are looking at placing bolts at a couple of inner city locations to
>open up a couple of quite nice 15m outcrops for more frequent use.
>
>From the perspective of cost and convenience we are considering using
>glue in machine bolts prepared as per www.safercliffs.org/code/bolt_guide.html
>for both top anchors and runners.

Glue in carrots are ok in theory - BUT there is a major problem with the bolt plate attachment system and new carabiners. Wire gate biners and modern narrow normal biners (like Petzel Spirits) easily detach from bolt plates if you jiggle them around. The problem is almost everyone uses these biners now - so by placing them you are possibly inviting an accident. If there is no major access issue with bolt visibility then please place u-bolts or rings.

rodw
21/10/2011
12:00:14 PM
Ive know the location of the crag, visibility WILL be an issue so glue in carrots are appropriate.
widewetandslippery
21/10/2011
12:58:13 PM
Michael, set you an email. Its Sydney Harbour Foreshore Authority land I think (=NAZI state). Someone else got time to do a real estate search?
mikllaw
21/10/2011
1:03:46 PM
I put up some routes opposite jones bay on carrots in the 80s. They are very well disguised now. Probably won't hold a fat climber any more.

kuu
21/10/2011
1:09:50 PM
On 21/10/2011 mikllaw wrote:
>I put up some routes opposite jones bay on carrots in the 80s. They are
>very well disguised now. Probably won't hold a fat climber any more.

Are you declaring a "self interest" here to support* the idea of retrobolting Mikl?

* no pun intended ;-)
mikllaw
21/10/2011
1:30:38 PM
I'd let them die quietly unless The Authority is interested in the idea of a Kangaroo Point style climbing area. They were all hard on jet black rock, riddled with vertical drill holes.
Someone may have built a cafe that sells $10 coffees over it anyway

White Trash
21/10/2011
5:46:16 PM
On 21/10/2011 davidn wrote:
>Sounds like a good reason not to climb there ...
>
>I hate carrots.

an ropes, an gear, an belayers, an ?
Tommo
23/10/2011
6:21:23 AM
You might need the mod's to let you into the safer cliffs forum to view this, but:

Shopping for drills - thread

There are 20 messages in this topic.

 

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