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Evolv Defy Shoes - How long should they last?

Camalittle

3-Jan-2011
9:02:14 AM

I've noticed that Evolv Defy shoes are a very popular choice at the Gyms lately.

I bought mine 15 months ago in the US, and the are already worn though on the toe. In that time I've used them on about 5 trips to Araps and 25 Gym sessions. I thought they would have lasted longer than that! - How long should a climbing shoe last?

Sabu

3-Jan-2011
10:11:14 AM

I have heard the toe of defy's wear rather quickly. As a result I bought a pair of Pontas instead (still going fairly strong after 2 years).

One Day Hero

3-Jan-2011
10:40:48 AM

Stop dragging your toes up the wall! You have a "numpty wear pattern" on your shoes; plenty of rubber left on the bit which is meant to touch the rock, holes on the bits which protrude the furthest and get dragged.

I did that to my first pair of shoes too.......the important step for fixing your technique is realising what you're doing wrong :)

Sonic

3-Jan-2011
12:08:23 PM

On 3/01/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>Stop dragging your toes up the wall! You have a "numpty wear pattern" on
>your shoes; plenty of rubber left on the bit which is meant to touch the
>rock, holes on the bits which protrude the furthest and get dragged.

Totally agree! Evolv rubber is also really bad wearing on sandstone - so almost all Aussie climbing - and rough wall texture. I got a pair of pontas when they first came out and they lasted 2 months in the blueys climbing 3-4 days a week. imo - trax rubber is garbage.

Climboholic

4-Jan-2011
12:08:07 PM

I bought a pair of Evolv Pontas when I was in California in 2004. They are now on their 4th? resole and still going strong. Well constructed shoe IMHO. I've always resoled with Onyx but from memory the Trax did wear out pretty quickly. Great grip on Californian granite though.

Seth

4-Jan-2011
12:15:20 PM

Hello Folks,

Evolv have developed a new injection moulded rand that has a thicker section of rubber in the toe area to prevent this problem.

These shoes will have "VTR" as a suffix to the shoe name. Defy VTRs should be available already, drop me a line if you are lookiing to find them.

Cheers,
Seth
Sea to Summit

aarond

4-Jan-2011
3:42:52 PM

How long should they last? not very long.

my belief is they are one of those new brands that can market really easily and appeal to climbers (generally the new ones) and the retailers i rekon have a large markup on them, why else would they be pushing everyone to buy them....

i was sucked in twice and would never go back to them, if you look at the US sites you can see they are the cheap shoes you can buy, sometimes finding the low end Evolves for $60

maizy11

17-Jan-2011
1:20:16 PM

I have to say I love evolve shoes. I have a pair of the 'Defy', as pictured above, and a pair of the 'Pontas' laced. The toe wore out super quick on the pontas, maybe 6 months! But they were my first pair, and I was gym climbing maybe 5-6 days a week. I had them re-soled and (after working on my footwork HEAPS) I haven't worn out the toe on either the Defy or the Pontas again.
I have seen poeple with all kinds of different shoes wearing out the toe like that on thier first pair, and just like it has been said before, it is because you are dragging your toes. Work on placing your feet carefully and you'll climb better, and your shoes will last longer.

dmnz

17-Jan-2011
11:35:10 PM

On 17/01/2011 maizy11 wrote:
Work on placing your feet carefully
>and you'll climb better, and your shoes will last longer.

and stop complaining about the rubber. don't like it? resole it with something else!

Ben_E

18-Jan-2011
11:04:00 PM

The Evolv rubber is pretty soft (and yes, unforgiving to sloppy footwork). When I was climbing a lot back in the States (gym twice a week and outdoors every 2nd weekend or so) I was burning through a pair of them about every 6 months.

Mind you, that was probably a blessing in disguise, as they are the nastiest, stinkiest shoes I've ever come across. With a bit of wear mine smelt like a dead cat fermenting in an old rubber tire left in a durian plantation. I was never tempted to get them re-soled as new ones were barely more than the cost of a resole in the States and a new pair meant I didn't have to drive with all the windows open on the way to and from climbing for a while...

dmnz

19-Jan-2011
5:11:59 PM

yes the synthetic evolvs are one of the smellier pairs i've owned

Seth

19-Jan-2011
8:42:31 PM

Let them air after climbing in them and occasionally wash them and they are fine. Certainly no stinkier than my old Anasazis...

Having said that there was chick climbing in my local gym who was wearing them that made me go green every time she took them off. way uncool.

dmnz

19-Jan-2011
8:49:58 PM

I air mine but have not washed this pair yet

I think the smell has to do with the lining as my Katanas did not smell as much. The Solutions smelt a bit more but not as bad as these. And both of these pairs I did a lot more mileage in. The lining also makes my foot sweatier which probably contributes to it.

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