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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Gear left at werribee

will5686
31/05/2010
8:18:10 AM
Hey guys,

We were at werribee gorge yesterday and there were two slings and some locking biners left at the top of the cliff when we arrived, around the too of big ears. We were going to collect them but as the day wore on and the sun started to set we forgot about them, so I hope their owner is able to collect them or someone else can pick them up to forward them on.

Cheers,
Claire
PatFroggy
2/06/2010
5:02:50 PM
Hey Claire,

Yes, we forgot them on saturday because it was night (like you). We went back there on monday night (after 2 days in Arapiles), and they weren't there. I hope the person who took them will contact me. Here's my phone number: 0431 972 741. Thanks for putting the message.

Cheers,

Patrice

mattjr
2/06/2010
7:44:14 PM
On 2/06/2010 PatFroggy wrote:
>Hey Claire,
>
>Yes, we forgot them on saturday because it was night (like you). We went
>back there on monday night (after 2 days in Arapiles), and they weren't
>there. I hope the person who took them will contact me. Here's my phone
>number: 0431 972 741. Thanks for putting the message.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Patrice

Hey patrice.. was at Werribee and saw your abandoned anchor as well. Bit of a shocker really.. my partner and I were tempted to take a picture and post it here for everyones perusal.
Firstly, those bollards are to stop you from using the small trees as anchor points. Secondly 2mm of tail on nylon slings tied with an overhand knot is NOT safe. Thirdly, you need to take some basic lessons on loads and angles because who ever set up this anchor has no idea and will end up hurting themselves or someone around them.

And no we didn't take your 2 Carabiners or your poxy pieces of nylon webbing.
>
ouita
3/06/2010
8:49:31 AM
In response to mattjr's post... I haven't seen the anchor in question so have no comment on that. But there's a way to give good advice that doesn't come across as being completely rude.
Hope you found the gear, Patrice.
PatFroggy
3/06/2010
6:13:51 PM
Thanks for the info Mattjr. I'll try not to use the trees next time. Did you see anybody there on monday? If you were there on monday?

By the way, I'm a bit shocked at the reaction to my first post on the forum. This is not very nice. And I still think that my anchor was really safe. I would have put an elephant on it. You can call me if you want to talk about it.
Rob668
3/06/2010
8:44:20 PM
I haven't seen the setup you were using.

Perhaps if you check the link here, http://www.chockstone.org/techtips/equalise.htm, it might give you an idea of what was wrong with your balancing of your system.

Good luck, climb safe, and perhaps get some instruction.

Rob
PatFroggy
4/06/2010
12:28:33 PM
Thanks Rob,

Very nice website. With very clear pictures.

mattjr
4/06/2010
1:33:22 PM
http://books.google.com.au/books?id=IXqk_0N1HgcC&printsec=frontcover&dq=craig+luebben+climbing+anchors&source=bl&ots=NiVKy2kzYt&sig=beU1KA-7UaKJdoeya6SKcHNUeiQ&hl=en&ei=g3MITMebFpq0cJmc4P8N&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CB4Q6AEwAg#v=onepage&q&f=false

will5686
5/06/2010
1:42:25 AM
Hey patrice,

My partner suggested we set up a top rope from your anchor, and while we didn't actually do it, it clearly demonstrates that he also thought that it was a good strong anchor.

Cheers,
Claire

Miguel75
5/06/2010
5:43:21 PM
Hey Claire,

how's the climbing, and new toys treating you? I had a cracker of a morning at Werribee gorge today. We need to catch up and climb again soon. Next time we'll organise it so I can give you a ride from the station.

Mikey
mikllaw
6/06/2010
8:26:33 AM
Just remember, advice from anyone is suspect, but always worth listening to. The quality of the advise has nothing to do with its mode of delivery, a cranky bastrd might be absolutely right. You should learn every time you go climbing.If someone thinks your anchor is dodgy, it's worth findut why, they migth be fluff or might be right. Good luck

will5686
7/06/2010
9:10:39 PM
Hey Mike,

We've gotten out to werribee once once the last time, which was good fun, though a bit muddy! A ride from the station would be good, it would save us the car money and the Melbourne traffic :) let us know when your keen. Dave has finished uni, just has exams, so we have plenty of time, weekdays and weekends!

Claire

Miguel75
7/06/2010
9:39:27 PM
On 6/06/2010 mikllaw wrote:
>Just remember, advice from anyone is suspect, but always worth listening
>to. The quality of the advise has nothing to do with its mode of delivery,
>a cranky bastrd might be absolutely right. You should learn every time
>you go climbing.If someone thinks your anchor is dodgy, it's worth findut
>why, they migth be fluff or might be right. Good luck

Thanks for sharing your advice Mike. I'm glad some of my pathetically crap anchors haven't been discovered by others while I've been playing at Werribee gorge. I'm trying to get in the habit of taking a pic of my anchor and sending it to my climbing partner (mentor) for his review. Apart from actually climbing, building anchors and plugging in gear is my favorite part of climbing rocks...

PatFroggy
16/06/2010
12:02:39 PM
Hey Matt,

I'm still wondering if you saw anybody else on monday at Werrivee who might have taken my gear. Maybe I can find him; the climbing community is quite small. Thanks,

Pat
widewetandslippery
16/06/2010
12:06:10 PM
Sounds like fair booty to me.
mikepatt
16/06/2010
2:26:12 PM
Sorry to hear your gear disappeared.

However perhaps you may like to look at

http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/Water_Knot_Testing.pdf

concerning tape slippage. It appears that the tape slips thru the knot with every single body weighting. Perhaps the tails need to be longer than 2mm.

Perhaps someone may remember the exact details of the accident at Mt York (1980-1990s??) which resulted in two deaths and may have been caused by sling failure???
Hugh
16/06/2010
5:00:22 PM
set ups aside, werribee gorge is pretty dodge... I'ed be more worried about what gear was actually ancored to.. Theres a number of large 'solid' boulders that will take a tumble soon..

IdratherbeclimbingM9
25/03/2011
5:04:36 PM
On 7/06/2010 Miguel75 wrote:
>Apart from actually climbing, building anchors and plugging in gear is my favorite
>part of climbing rocks...
>
... So when are you taking on aid* climbing?

(*I have noted your Ozy aspirations...)
;-)

Miguel75
25/03/2011
5:50:26 PM
On 25/03/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>... So when are you taking on aid* climbing?
>
>(*I have noted your Ozy aspirations...)
>;-)

Actually, the last few times I've been out I've been 'aiding' on TR solo, trying to get used to the system. I was at Staughton Vale the other day hooking a few climbs and I'm glad one of the first things I read was not to look at your piece as you weight it... Three of my hook placements popped off at Mach speed and hit my helmet with a sound whack.

I'm working on my Ozy dream at present and will post up a TR once completed... Stay tuned for your pics, I only have Internet via iPhone at present.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
25/03/2011
6:02:51 PM
At this stage, I have plans on finishing a route I started at Buffalo, next easter.
If we overlap, I can give you some pointers...

There are 20 messages in this topic.

 

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