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Topic Date User

Direct Loading of Dyneema Slings 12-Apr-2010 At 4:30:07 PM dieselcam

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"Clipping directly into a belay with a sling, not keeping it under tension, allowing slack to develop and then slipping or falling onto the belay"

If this did happen, surely you aren't going to fall very far so I would hardly think that there could be enough force generated to make anything much fail.

"clipping into the belay with a sling and then moving around to get comfortable/keep the climber in sight. If you then slip or have to hold an unexpected fall the belay and sling will be shock loaded"

Half of that is the same as the first example (slipping and falling a small distance onto the belay). As for the second part about an unexpected fall (as opposed to an expected fall), I don't understand how clipping in with a sling creates a "shock loaded" situation on the belay.

"Working a move on a route whilst on the lead and using a sling to keep yourself in position, then trying the move with the sling still attached to the anchor. If the rope is slack and you fall you will be falling directly onto the sling."

Really? Would you have a sling attached to the anchor while going for the move rather than (or as well as) the rope to catch you in a fall? And if you did fall on the sling again it's not going to be a big fall. Unless of course your sling is one of those 4 metre cordelette chaps!