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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
fiveten moccasym
climbing acrophobic
22-Jan-2005
3:24:26 PM
Thinking about buying a pair. Anyone got some feedback on them?
malnosaj
22-Jan-2005
5:23:42 PM
Get some Anasazi Slippers...basically the same but lined?

tmarsh
22-Jan-2005
6:29:35 PM
I assume you mean the older style red slipper?

If so, they are brilliant. Very soft, very sensitive, and if your foot is the right shape, easily one of the best choices for steep rock.

They are not the same as the Anasazi slippers. The anasazis will edge better and have a slightly sharper toe point, but won't be as nice on really steep rock. The lining and cowdura upper will cut down on stretch which is a good thing in some respects, but will also mean that they are not as forgiving in terms of sizing.

And now, for another positive report of Moccasyms, stand by for Dalai.

tim
Wendy
23-Jan-2005
8:12:33 PM
Bloody love them! Ha
Wendy
23-Jan-2005
8:19:57 PM
Oops, trying again!

Bloody love them! Have barely climbed in anything else for years. They really suit my short fat feet, are comfy even though I like my shoes tight, they aren't too bizarrely shaped (I don't like the ultra curvy shoes), work well all sort of rocks, styles of climbing - I even did Where Angels Fear to Tread in a pair, although I admit this was an enthusiastic exercise and my feet were pretty sore by the end of it! I searched all over the place for another pair in my size in Europe, to no avail, but I didn't find anything else I preferred in the search.

The only problem with them is heel hooking, mostly as they get older and stretch a bit - it's a little annoyed to pause after a heel hook to kick your shoe back on again! I have a pair of diamonds for climbs where this will be a real problem. Also, I have really small feet, shoes this soft may not be so versatile withthe extra leverage edging with big feet.

gfdonc
24-Jan-2005
12:16:15 PM
Wendy, FYI did you notice you can Edit your own posts? So if you accidentally save, just go back to the thread listing, you should see an Edit button next to your posts.
- Steve
climbing acrophobic
25-Jan-2005
1:50:17 PM
thanks.

Johan Vonshizzle
25-Jan-2005
3:47:45 PM
They were my only shoe for a 3 month Euro trip in '03 - From Font to swiss limestone and Austrian granite
- best all round slipper out.

Johan
dalai
25-Jan-2005
4:08:07 PM
On 22/01/2005 tmarsh wrote:
>I assume you mean the older style red slipper?
>
>If so, they are brilliant. Very soft, very sensitive, and if your foot
>is the right shape, easily one of the best choices for steep rock.
>
>They are not the same as the Anasazi slippers. The anasazis will edge
>better and have a slightly sharper toe point, but won't be as nice on really
>steep rock. The lining and cowdura upper will cut down on stretch which
>is a good thing in some respects, but will also mean that they are not
>as forgiving in terms of sizing.
>
>And now, for another positive report of Moccasyms, stand by for Dalai.
>
>tim

Well said Tim. I can only concur with what you said. Brilliant slippers. Probably nearest match was by the first version of the 5-10 UFO.
sydneymatt
20-Apr-2006
2:43:57 PM
Mocasyns are a great shoe....for a while. Bought to just painfully fit. Within a couple of days ..very comfortable and excellent+++ performance. Two months later terriible and sloppy. After resole just as bad. Lined velcros could be the go. Just bought some red chilli voodoos. First week in they out-perform muira and anastazi laceups for me. Have big foot and are right stiffness and angle for me.

sticky
20-Apr-2006
3:30:39 PM
On 20/04/2006 ti wrote:
>I'm now in the market for looking for new shoes. I've heard heaps of rave
>reviews about the moccasyms and that if I buy a pair I should size them
>super small. How small is SMALL?
>
>I've got a pair of Anasazi which I bought SUPER small - US 2.5 (1.5 UK)
>and although they stretched about a half size my toes were still bent downwards.
>They were good for all types of climbing but It meant that I couldn't really
>smear. My toes couldn't flex upwards!

Hey Ti

I bought my Mocs in Size 11.5 when I'm normally a 13 in Five ten. Your feet are way smaller so there won't be as much leather to stretch in them, and the shoe will feel stiffer for you. Don't compare with the Anasazis - they're lined synthetic; I'm surprised you got half a size stretch out of them.

My Mocs are still "toe down", but not painful at all and smear really well. The advice I was given was to note the smallest size you can possibly fit on your foot and go up half a size. I prefer my Venoms for almost everything but the mocs are my comfort climbing shoe and smear better. Wear them at the gym and sometimes for multipitch unless there's crack climbing involved. Hope that helps.

Wendy, blown away you wore them up Angels. Respect due! Last time I wore mocs in a crack I had my belayer throw my approach shoes to me half way up to finsih the climb, I was holding back tears of pain.

cheers Kyle
Dalai
20-Apr-2006
3:37:47 PM
On 20/04/2006 sydneymatt wrote:
>Mocasyns are a great shoe....for a while. Bought to just painfully fit.

But did you get your foot in just - painfully?

Or did you go the foot in the plastic bag and two draws on the heel tabs to get your foot in? Slowly moving on to small piece of plastic in the heel and two draws to get your foot in? And finally after a month or so of this finally get to wear them without any plastic but still painfully tight? If not you bought them too big!

Brilliant slipper - still own 4 pairs in various stages of stretching torture...

To give a general idea of difference in sizing - for me.

Standard Asics runner size 44.5
Velcro Anasazi 41 I still haven't gone past the plastic bag as they are lined - maybe would have been better 1/2 to a full size larger.
Moccasym - 39.5

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20-Apr-2006
3:42:11 PM
On 20/04/2006 ti wrote:
>I'm now in the market for looking for new shoes. I've heard heaps of rave
>reviews about the moccasyms and that if I buy a pair I should size them
>super small. How small is SMALL?

... about 5.10 dragons size 4 (US).
& maybe have a left shoe with a hole on the toe for comfort?

heh, heh, heh.
:)

Phil S
20-Apr-2006
5:30:25 PM
I've spent many good years on Anasazi Velcos and, believing the 5:10 blurb about Moccasyms being built off the same last have tried them on several occations. They don't fit me. Not even close. If you are happy with your Anasazis you might need to be a bit careful. Maybe consider a slightly larger pair of Anasazis (in addition to your small pair). But if they do fit... well, who could ignore the praise.
Dalai
20-Apr-2006
5:48:06 PM
Not joking. I am sure there will be some people who I sold shoes to still cursing me! I was brought up in the era of the smallest size you can squeeze you foot into...

I used to bring out the Anasazis when I worked at the gym if anyone complained about tight shoes... I would put them on in front of them which would quieten them!

Painfully tight is needing a plastic bag over the foot when putting them on and foot immediately cramping when they are new.

Sizes I listed were for shoes I wear. Like I said, given the lining in the Anasazi I probably should have gone up a half to full size. Moccasym size is definitely a couple down from the Anasazis.

sticky
20-Apr-2006
6:18:35 PM
On 20/04/2006 ti wrote:
>For moccasyms to fit well and not be sloppy
>later, I need them painfully tight? My anasazis that i bought were painfully
>tight when i first bought them. i couldn't even stand up!
>
>So is this what i should look for in a moccasym?
>
Ti - you can't begin to compare anasazis to moccasyms. La Sportiva Cobras, those purple Scarpas (Vortex?) or the Boreal Ninjas are a better comparison. They will stretch and keep on stretching for as long as you own them. Anasazis will mould to your foot but they don't give much, if at all - that's the way they're designed. Mocs are designed to stretch to fit with a brief but painful break in. I know a bloke with three pairs of mocs - one that's new for bouldering, one that's midlife for trad and a old pair that he wears with socks for winter climbing - they're all the same size.


There are 16 messages in this topic.

 

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