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lightest carabiners that wont come off bolt plates


jay590

24-Aug-2009
5:57:22 PM

What are the lightest carabiners that wont allow bolt plates to come off carrots?


wallwombat

24-Aug-2009
9:31:36 PM

Most straight solid gate biners weigh in the 48-52 gram range.

Find one you like and buy a dozen of them to put on your draws when go carrot clipping.

I think the Trango Superfly might be the lightest (don't quote me on that) but good luck getting them here in Australia for a decent price.

patto

24-Aug-2009
11:23:39 PM

Yeah Trango Superflys come in at 37g for solid gates.

Though DMM shadows are much larger and more practical. The weigh in at 43g and can be had here: http://www.rockhardware.com.au/Order.asp?Action=View&StockCode=shadow&MainGroup=Karabiners


The good Dr

25-Aug-2009
12:10:45 AM

there are no guarantees that even a large solid gate biner will not come off a carrot bolt. I have witnessed it happening with a large biner. a large hanger and an under sized bolt with a small head is all that is needed.

your best insurance is to be aware that this may occur (rare but possible) and climb accordingly. or as Yoda said to Luke when he said he was not scared ... 'you will be, you will be'

Wendy

25-Aug-2009
7:42:10 AM

I think it's an over generalisation not to use wire gates on carrots after comparing some of my biners. The hotwires, omega dovals and wildcountry heliums all turned out to be similar to solid gate biners. Add usual caveat that it all depends on the carrot and the hanger involved. you can manage to get a biner to unclip itself from a fixed hanger as well if you try hard enough.

racingtadpole

25-Aug-2009
8:41:21 AM

Keep it in perspective (albeit a bit tongue in cheek). 10 biners x 52gm = 520gm. 10 biners x 37gm = 370 gm. Difference = 150gm. You will lose way more weight by having a decent crap before you climb.....

Wendy

25-Aug-2009
9:01:03 AM

I have this theory Adam, that all my modern lightweight gear compensates for the few kilos that seemed to have crept up on me in the past few years - overall, my rack and I weigh the same as we did when I was 18!

(I do have 22 gram biners which feel more like plastic toys than metal)

climberman

25-Aug-2009
9:05:29 AM

wendy, out of interest what are the 22gm 'biners ?


rodw

25-Aug-2009
9:21:52 AM

On 25/08/2009 racingtadpole wrote:
> You will lose way more weight by having a decent crap before you climb.....

Or during it depending on the route in question.

Wendy

25-Aug-2009
10:03:46 AM

bd oz and camp nano, think the xenon lites are in that ball park too. they are all very small biners and people with big hands haven't been as fond of them as I am.


evanbb

25-Aug-2009
12:18:55 PM

On 25/08/2009 rodw wrote:
>On 25/08/2009 racingtadpole wrote:
>> You will lose way more weight by having a decent crap before you climb.....
>
>Or during it depending on the route in question.

Sadly, the weight still counts if it's still inside your pants.

Like my (flawed) theory of drinking all the water in my pack before walking out of Piddo.

climberman

25-Aug-2009
3:18:35 PM

Ta wendy.

racingtadpole

25-Aug-2009
3:43:22 PM

On 25/08/2009 Wendy wrote:
>I have this theory Adam, that all my modern lightweight gear compensates
>for the few kilos that seemed to have crept up on me in the past few years
>- overall, my rack and I weigh the same as we did when I was 18!
>
>(I do have 22 gram biners which feel more like plastic toys than metal)

Another take on it Wendy,

52gm x 10 = 520gm
22gm x 10 = 220gm
300 gms difference.
Cams weigh the same as when I bought my first one
Same goes for hexes and nuts
Rope still weighs the same, it just gets thinner.

So this leads me to believe you are only 18 1/2, or were 'retaining fluid' when you weighed yourself.....

Now that Ive made myself sound really creepy.... :D


ajfclark

25-Aug-2009
3:54:38 PM

I think your maths is off racingtadpole. I don't know about Wendy, but I carry more than 10 carabiners when I climb. Usually something like 12 draws (24 biners) plus some other bits and pieces so something north of 30 without including racking or locking biners...

Wendy

25-Aug-2009
4:02:21 PM

Take off them milligrams Adam!!! The latest camalots are lighter as are the latest rocks, and my 9.1mm is pretty swish ... Seems like I can barely lift the gear I had until a few years ago ... my very pared down guiding rack of old gear weighs as much as the ridiculously large rack I carry climbing for myself.

racingtadpole

25-Aug-2009
4:07:23 PM

On 25/08/2009 ajfclark wrote:
>I think your maths is off racingtadpole. I don't know about Wendy, but
>I carry more than 10 carabiners when I climb. Usually something like 12
>draws (24 biners) plus some other bits and pieces so something north of
>30 without including racking or locking biners...

10 Biners = 5 Draws, bullemic sport climber maybe?
For the record, math was never my strong point and my rack puts me at (qouting Jeremy Clarkson) "600pounds, which is almost as much as one whole American". Although he was reffering to a Yamaha outboard engine when he said that.

Just trying to inject a bit of fun into what is turning into a very tedious day for me.
I'll stop dragging the thread off on tangents now.


wallwombat

25-Aug-2009
4:10:55 PM

On 25/08/2009 ajfclark wrote:
>I think your maths is off racingtadpole. I don't know about Wendy, but
>I carry more than 10 carabiners when I climb. Usually something like 12
>draws (24 biners) plus some other bits and pieces so something north of
>30 without including racking or locking biners...

The dude was talking about biners that wont come off bolt plates. You only need one of these on one end of a draw. Therefore if you usually took 12 draws you would need 12 solid gate biners if you were planning on clipping into bolt plates. .

Wendy

25-Aug-2009
4:17:10 PM

we haven't factored carrying the bolt plates either ... those milligrams there are definately going to be the straw that breaks the camels back, thus meaning that Evan's soul will never be able to join him on holiday.

racingtadpole

25-Aug-2009
4:22:49 PM

Pre-placement of the bolt plates means you dont gotta carry them.


ajfclark

25-Aug-2009
4:35:50 PM

On 25/08/2009 wallwombat wrote:
>The dude was talking about biners that wont come off bolt plates.

Jay was but Racingtadpole was talking about the total weight difference light carabiners make to a rack.

There are 36 messages in this topic.