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Black Diamond "STOPPER" Set. (Sizes 4 to 13) - 10 pieces. Comes with a "free" karabiner for racking.   $109.00
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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 25
Author
An RP Alternative

Desk Monkey
23/07/2009
6:14:31 PM
Hey Guys,
Whilst doing my usual round of gear lust internet browsing, I came across these little beauties from DMM.

http://www.dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=215&ngroup=1

But here's the question, are they an RP killer? or is even mentioning the possibility blasphemous?
Here's a quick, and not necessarily 100% accurate, comparison.



I'm not sure on prices in Australia yet so its hard to do a full comparison.
Oh and they've also made some new versions of the old HB Brass Offsets in some fairly small sizes too.

DM

nmonteith
23/07/2009
6:21:57 PM
http://www.dmmclimbing.com/productsDetails.asp?pid=5&pid2=203
wm
23/07/2009
6:42:39 PM
i have both dmms and rps and like the diversity. there's lots of placements where RPs aren't sinker but the dmms are... and vice versa. bear in mind they're made of different metals so will "mould" to placements differently
Mike Bee
23/07/2009
11:05:19 PM
On 23/07/2009 wm wrote:
>i have both dmms and rps and like the diversity.

Hi wm,
How do you have the DMMs IMPs already, you lucky bum? Been traveling to the UK recently? They aren't in Oz just yet.

Is the difference in how they place due to the size or the metal, do you reckon?

Desk Monkey
24/07/2009
7:41:46 AM
Yeh I thought the Imps and Brass HB offsets only came out at the beginning of this month in Europe. Or have you been feeling the benefit of internet shopping?

Duncan
24/07/2009
8:49:58 AM
HB used to make brass offsets a few years ago, I think. A friend of mine had a set, and they were pretty much the best thing ever for Araps.

Also on DMM's website:

http://www.dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=216&ngroup=1

Ooh, shiny!

Desk Monkey
24/07/2009
9:29:15 AM
I bought a set of the alloy offsets and, while I don't get to use them all the time, when I find a placement itís pretty sweet.
Duncan
24/07/2009
10:53:33 AM
Black Diamond have some weird looking micro offsets too. Dunno what they're made of though. Possibly kryptonite.

wallwombat
24/07/2009
2:12:44 PM
Those IMPs don't look different enough to RPs to spike my interest.

The brass offsets, on the other hand, look sweet and I want some.

wm
24/07/2009
6:21:56 PM
woops didn't check the link. i have the dmm wallnuts. and they are great. also have some teeny dmm peenuts which are bloody handy at times
One Day Hero
24/07/2009
9:01:20 PM
On 24/07/2009 wallwombat wrote:
>Those IMPs don't look different enough to RPs to spike my interest.
>
>The brass offsets, on the other hand, look sweet and I want some.
>
>
Nah, buy RP's and file the offset yourself. The resulting product is more or less the same, it takes 10 minutes and you'll be supporting an australian small business run by a legend.

Chalk Free
25/07/2009
7:03:23 AM
On 24/07/2009 One Day Hero wrote:

>... you'll be supporting an australian
>small business run by a legend.

I second that.

muki
25/07/2009
11:19:30 AM
On 24/07/2009 Duncan wrote:
>Also on DMM's website:
>
>http://www.dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=216&ngroup=1
>
>Ooh, shiny!

These could give BD a run for there money, depending on weight and cost.
I'll look forward to seeing the specs for these units myself.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
25/07/2009
12:06:19 PM
On 24/07/2009 wallwombat wrote:
>Those IMPs don't look different enough to RPs to spike my interest.
>
I tend to agree. I like the fact they are hand made (The time-consuming and delicate silver soldering is all done by hand).

Although I am a fan of the small-mid offsets (have the old HB ones), and nearly always have them on the rack (and use them!), I agree with ODH about 'offsetting' the local product (if one feels it necessary).

From the stat table above, it seems that for the most part they are like 'half-sizes' compared to what has traditionally been available. Slightly stronger too for some sizes, but although there would be situations that it could make a difference in, I doubt I'd ever notice that aspect in the vast majority of the placements I'd make with them, due I figure security of placement (rock type etc), in those sizes to be a more crucial factor.

wallwombat
25/07/2009
12:15:21 PM
I'm glad someone brought that up.

I recently scored an old set of HB nuts which have a pronounced groove in the face of each nut. I was considering filing or grinding one end to make them into offsets.

I can't really see a problem.

Bomber, what do you think?

muki
25/07/2009
6:57:16 PM
Go for it the groove is a pain in the arse when cleaning them (they get caught on small rugosities)
I think offsets rule ! so making a set out of those old nuts is a great idea !
Just take a good look at a set of offsets first.
I would use a vise to hold them then a grinder on the larger sizes, then finish them with a file.
On the smaller sizes just a file will do.
And remember that the offset camber happens in two different planes.
Have fun, I love taking a grinder to my climbing gear, very satisfying.
devlin66
25/07/2009
7:28:52 PM
I was just looking at the 'HB' offset on the DMM website. Are they asymmetrical in 2 axises or 3 axises?

muki
25/07/2009
11:02:40 PM
A nut has four sides, therefore only two axis, a third axis would be quite difficult to place ?
I have seen a nut that does have three axis, on a single wire, very specialised, quite rare.
devlin66
26/07/2009
1:12:29 AM
Actually has 6 sides. I am wondering whether a sloped bottom and top would affect placements as well. Top not so much but bottom maybe.

muki
26/07/2009
10:38:21 AM
Have never placed a "reliable" nut using the third axis you are talking about,
as the loading would tend to torque the nut out of it's placement.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 25
There are 25 messages in this topic.

 

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