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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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Tech Tips

5:56:38 PM
> Trusting a cam placed in a glassy smooth parallel crack, only to have it tear free
> under less than body weight. Cams need a rough surface to initiate expansion. Treat
> greasy smooth parallel cracks with the same suspicion as flaring ones.

I can attest to this. When I was still an overconfident wannabe I took a 14m whipper on a 20m climb for this reason (and obviously all the pro above my bommer #7 hexcentric was not so bommer). An all round good tips section, had I read this a few years ago (I probably would have ignored it) but I is all good sense now.

11:58:11 PM
were you cranking hard in the gym b4 you placed those bommer runners?

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