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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Author
crimping and sore fingers
dougo
21/03/2007
1:57:32 PM
I've found myself crimping harder recently and have noticed pain in the front knuckles of my fingers. I know that its my technique that sucks - i.e. bridging instead of open handed crimping, and was looking for some advice on how to train my technique to get better.

I just don't seem to be able to hold on as well with openhanded crimps, my fingers just straighten out and slip off - would a grip strengthener be of any use?
dalai
21/03/2007
2:26:09 PM
Better doing open hand hangs increasing length of time hanging and on smaller holds to overload and increase your open hand contact strength.

Squeeze devices don't replicate climbing movement (Isometric vs Isotonic or concentric contraction) plus can't overload the muscles as they get stronger...

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