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Tribute Wall accident 11/09/2018 10-Oct-2018 At 9:57:07 PM IdratherbeclimbingM9

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On 10-Oct-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 26-Sep-2018 Wendy wrote:
>>I am about 1.5m tall. If a bolt is at my feet when I clip a bolt at my
>face, I have about 2.5m about rope out. Add a tad of slack and rope stretch
>and I'm still going to go nearly 6m if I fall clipping.
>
>This maths is all wack, no wonder you hate falling.
>
>Assuming 2.5m of rope out and waist 0.7m above bolt (propped up on short
>little Wendy legs), your tiny feet will be 3.2m below where they started
>when you hit the rope. How small is the belayer if that turns into a 6m
>whipper with stretch etc?
>
>In a situation where preventing the climber friendly om hitting stuff trumps
>soft catch, an attentive belayer could suck a metre of rope in as you go,
>cutting the fall down to 2.5ish metres.

Hmm.
Pedant alert!
My maths may be out of wack too, because it doesn’t add up to yours, but it's close.

Known assumptions!
Bolt at feet is clipped okay.
Feet to waist = 0.7m
Feet to bolt at face = 1.5 m
Waist to bolt at face = 0.8 m, x 2 for slack if clip is missed, therefore 1.6 m

1.6 m + 0.7 m + another 0.7 slack for the fall = 3.0 m

Where does your 3.2 m come from when the rope is hit?

Yeah, yeah 2.5+ 0.7=3.2 ... but is it the right calculation?
Rope stretch of only 0.2 m ???

Old time adage of ‘the leader must not fall’ solves the problem bigtime!
Heh, heh, heh.