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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 28
QuickDraw error/failure
12:23:33 AM
Ok. I am really interested in hearing people's opinions on this.

Climbing in yangshuo today. Clipped the third bolt (hanger) and on my way to the fourth bolt. Climbing slightly above and to the right of the bolt when I pulled a hold off. Route was slightly over vertical. I believe the draw was facing the correct way. When the rope took, I slowed down, before 'something' has happened - and I have hit the ground. On the rope I have the dogbone and a biner still attached. From what it looks like from the ground, the gate of the biner is bent out. My mates will go back soon and get photos... It seems to me like the biner has cammed against the bolt, causing the biner to be loaded in a weird direction.

And yes, I am ok...

8:53:46 AM
Do you use rubber keepers on bolt end of your draws? Misrigging these has caused accidents previously:

Another failure separating the dogbone from the bolt, this time by snapping the biner:

Wasn't there another one on El Cap a while back? That was biners snapping too, wasn't it?
9:41:58 AM
Yeah, the draw was definitely configured in the correct manner. My thoughts are that it is a similar issue to what rob had in the gramps with the recessed u bolt, in that the recessed u 'cross loaded' the biner. Except this time it has been the hanger and the bolt interacting to 'crossload' the biner. I am sure a heap of us have seen this kind of weird biner/hanger configuration, but generally when the draw has been loaded outwards or sideways - e.g. when lowering off.
Dr Nick
9:46:52 AM
Bent out gate strongly suggests that the top of the sling was on the gate of the top krab. If the gate faced the way you were climbing (i.e. right) and there was something preventing the krab rotating then conceivably you might get the sling moving up and around, then locking onto the gate because the hinge prevents it coming back cleanly.

Total speculation, but can you comment on whether the rock near the bolt was rough, or had any obvious protruberances?
9:57:39 AM
Rock around was very smooth with no protrusions that I can remember. I am generally consistent in facing biners in a correct direction, especially when the route is moving sideways slightly, so I would be surprised if it was facing the wrong way. That said, we all make mistakes... I am very much looking forward to getting some photos...
10:24:23 AM
Was it a trubolt with a thread sticking out heaps ??

like shown below.
11:15:30 AM
Did anyone climb up and retreive the biner? Send Mikl a photo & he'll send you a report in PDF :p

But it does sound like the rubber snap issue - it's what killed that kid Tito Traversa in Italy - so make sure you inspect your gear.

What are you climbing in Yang Shuo???

Jealous! (of the climbing, not the gear failing....)
11:49:37 AM
To me is sounds like the top biner on the the draw rotated and became cross loaded. When you fell it pulled the gate out. Was it a wiregate?

4:49:35 PM
On 7/03/2014 martym wrote:
>But it does sound like the rubber snap issue - it's what killed that kid
>Tito Traversa in Italy - so make sure you inspect your gear.

In many years of climbing, I have only ever heard of that mistake once, and unfortunately it was a tragedy precipitated by a very young climber, to another very young climber.

The people involved in this incident appear to be mature climbers by comparison, and as such I doubt your speculation is valid in this instance.
Of course, if I am wrong, then I hope that your suggestion of inspecting gear is done in a way which actually proves worthwhile.
5:00:49 PM
Yeah, definitely not a rubber attachment issue in this instance. The bolts here are generally expansion bolts. I haven't noticed any unusually large amounts of bolt protrusion from the hanger on bolts I have clipped. Can't comment on the bolt in question though until we have a closer look.

10:35:01 PM
I always thought this could happen. I always thought it was unlikely though…

10:53:04 PM
Freak nasty that looks funky. Glad you're ok.
11:10:13 PM
Freak nasty indeed. The biner has cammed, the dogbone has been above the gate and I fell in a direction that put enough outwards force to disengage the key of the gate. Obviously, when the key of the gate has disengaged I was ........... You get the idea.
12:36:06 AM

Which direction is up in the photo?

12:42:42 AM
On 8/03/2014 tristosterone wrote:
>I always thought this could happen. I always thought it was unlikely though…
Ye olde ovals wouldn't have done that.
Then again they wouldn't have been clipped to anything like that back in the day...
12:49:12 AM
Up is up - gate is facing down...

8:42:02 AM
So your photo is upside down then and should look like this?

Did you spin the biner upside down after clipping it to the bolt or did that happen due to rope movement?
10:06:05 AM
For me, the correct view is the original photo with the gate being on the ground side. I didn't rotate the biner after clipping it in.

10:15:00 AM
Wow that's freaky. Send it in to the gear manufacturer - I'm sure they would be very interested to see this. Glad you're ok.

10:41:54 AM
On 9/03/2014 tristosterone wrote:
>For me, the correct view is the original photo with the gate being on the
>ground side. I didn't rotate the biner after clipping it in.

That doesn't make a lot of sense. Did the hanger get spun 180 degrees? How did the rope fall out by reversing gravity (as did the open gate?)

Is this bolt on a vertical wall - or in a cave?

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There are 28 messages in this topic.


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