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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Topic Date User
Climber injured in bluies after 30m fall 2/Jan/13 18-Jan-2013 At 1:25:29 PM Team t-rex
Message
This is really useful info re: fall factors and the forces created. Thanks for posting that.

I recall early in my climbing career (and I'm still a total bumbly), reading a tragic story about anchor failure in Tahquiz. It didn't end well for the parties involved. It was unclear as to the reasons for the anchor failure (ie poor placement), but according to the recount of the story, the three point anchor was found at the base of the climb, still attached to the belayer. It terrified me that such an event could even happen. I guess that was a healthy response & it saved my ass later!

So, what are thoughts on best practice for setting up belays on multi-pitch routes? Do folks re-set belays depending on the direction of the next pitch? Use the belay as the first piece?

Someone once told me to place gear early and often when starting off on a climb esp where a ff2 was possible. I always clip a piece on the belay as my first piece too (assuming its well placed & well positioned for the climb). What are other ways to minimise the risk?

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