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Climber injured in bluies after 30m fall 2/Jan/13 16-Jan-2013 At 11:26:55 AM jrc

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>Are you referring to putting a separate (say) quickdraw on one of the (say three point), belay pieces, then clipping the lead rope to it as a normal runner?
>Depending upon direction of loading, I would expect that this practise would introduce the possibility of a 'cascade failure' of a belay, if the primary pieces were less than secure, and I would add further pieces to the belay if necessary (and possible!), to counteract that scenario.

Not really. I have got into the practice of rigging the first runner as a runner independent of the other belay anchors (although sometimes i might sling it looseley into the belay as well, eg using the top carabiner of the quickdraw & another sling) before i leave the 'ledge'. I'll have to rethink my options if i encounter a 'hanger' with a hard move. I might stay in the pub instead.

>Post edit:
> i have always tried to assemble a belay since that time with a built in runner of some sort.

>If my above mental picture is correct, have you considered carrying a 'screamer' (tear-stitch load-limiting runner), dedicated for use at belays?

I would only use a screamer if the belay failed outright!