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Topic Date User

Climber injured in bluies after 30m fall 2/Jan/13 14-Jan-2013 At 6:40:39 PM Rock turtle

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Yes, unfortunately 3 point anchor was removed to walk along the ledge and not reset when we walked back as we were still scouting the route. This would be my biggest mistake I would say.

The cam which was placed as a hard point for my belayer was placed in the horizontal crack. For it to pull I would say even if 2 cams were placed they may still have pulled as the force seemed to have a large horizontal component, probably from the nut placement out to the left. If a 3rd piece was placed in the vertical crack on the right I believe that would have held.

Things I would do again, rebuild the 3 point anchor even when on a big ledge looking for the route.

Myself personally I don't think I'll be climbing trad routes unless I have a clear toppo, or BOMBPROOF beta