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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Author
Nutcracker pitch 3 climbing fall (Yosemite)

ajfclark
7-Feb-2015
7:56:14 AM


This was one of Rock and Ice's Weekend Whipper posts and one of the comments reminded me of a local poster here:

Tape on 5.8, laybacking, placing cams in a climb called "nutcracker," owning TC pros as a terminal beater, leg behind the rope. Oh yeah, and you're wearing a go pro.
Olbert
7-Feb-2015
12:06:38 PM
This is really a great example of what not to do...
patto
7-Feb-2015
12:56:13 PM
Wow! For those that are not aware; That pitch is a long way from vertical, though the camera nor his technique does not seem to suggest that. The climb is a 5.8 which translates to about a 16. Its all relatively easy and straight forward unless your try to climb a slab-crack while laybacking.

ajfclark
7-Feb-2015
2:09:00 PM
It reminded me of this http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=4&MessageID=3437&Replies=8&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost

Maybe they got some real gear and headed outdoors?
kieranl
7-Feb-2015
3:40:50 PM
Good thing he fell off there rather than on the mantle move on the headwall
peteclimbs
8-Feb-2015
11:14:48 AM
Yup he's fortunate that that pitch starts by taking a big step right off the block that his belayer is stood on, otherwise that fall would have been very bad indeed. Having climbed Nutcracker back in October it's still fairly fresh in the mind. IMO P3 does in fact get quite stiff further up as the crack narrows and you have a couple of quite strenuous sections of tips lay-backing. He hasn't got to that bit yet in the video. The mantel up high is awesome :)
patto
8-Feb-2015
11:37:25 AM
On 8/02/2015 peteclimbs wrote:
>Yup he's fortunate that that pitch starts by taking a big step right off
>the block that his belayer is stood on...

Yep... But if you are silly enough and don't set up a belay on that ledge, and don't notice the big crack on the right off the ledge then you may end up going straight up off the ledge trying to gain a thin seem well above the ledge. You may also find that 3m up it gets significantly harder and then you have to carefully downclimb hard slab with no gear above the ankle breaking ledge.

(Supposedly... So I heard from a friend of a friend.... :-o )

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8-Feb-2015
11:56:25 AM
On 7/02/2015 ajfclark wrote:
>one of the comments reminded me of a local poster here:
>
(Yep, and isn't it interesting that site has one too!)
>
Tape on 5.8, laybacking, placing cams in a climb called "nutcracker,"
>owning TC pros as a terminal beater, leg behind the rope. Oh yeah, and you're wearing a go pro.


Placing Cams?
... It looked like a FF2 back onto the belay to me, only mitigated by the rope running over a sharp edge!!!
The climbers exclamation is appropriate...

~> 16 seconds of good instruction (heh, heh, heh), and those climbers would be further lucky if their rope isn't damaged.
.
peteclimbs
8-Feb-2015
12:04:58 PM
If you read the full post on rock n ice they mention a cam placement that popped. The pro at the beginning of that pitch is great so not sure what happened there.
olbert
8-Feb-2015
12:22:32 PM
On 8/02/2015 peteclimbs wrote:
>If you read the full post on rock n ice they mention a cam placement that
>popped. The pro at the beginning of that pitch is great so not sure what
>happened there.

From behind the screen - it looks like the pro potential is great all the way up...he just doesn't place any. It looks like it could have been (and should have been) sewn up!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8-Feb-2015
12:40:23 PM
On 8/02/2015 peteclimbs wrote:
>If you read the full post on rock n ice they mention a cam placement that
>popped. The pro at the beginning of that pitch is great so not sure what
>happened there.

Ok. I went looking for it, and found it, located (visually blurred) a krab just next (below) to his lower foot in this frame...

ajfclark
8-Feb-2015
1:31:56 PM
That's his shoelace.

Watching the fall frame by frame the rope never takes up. Unless he booted the gear out I don't see how it popped? I'd expect to see it hit his hand or leg at the end of the sequence too.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8-Feb-2015
1:44:09 PM
On 8/02/2015 ajfclark wrote:
>That's his shoelace.
>
?
I am not looking at the squiggle 'inside' (between) his feet, but the krab with one end seemingly touching the outside of his lower foot?
You may well be right, my eyesight is not what it used to be.
... and it doesn't really matter, inasmuch as the vid documents a stuff up on more than one level, though I suspect it was put out there by those ascentionists as more of a 'look at us - we're rad climbers' (sad-)promo.

>Watching the fall frame by frame the rope never takes up. Unless he booted
>the gear out I don't see how it popped? I'd expect to see it hit his hand
>or leg at the end of the sequence too.

Perhaps not if it ends up at his waist, ... which doesn't tend to show in the vid.

Two pedants debating? ~> A Chocky side-serve amusement for Wendy??
;-)
peteclimbs
8-Feb-2015
1:53:29 PM
Below his foot you can just about make up a carabiner in a few frames around the 2 to 3 second mark on the vid. Guess he kicked it out which seems plausible given how he slide feet first.

This pic gives a belayers view of the start of the pitch. This is all a few feet below where the dude fell in the video but you get the idea - great jams, great pro :)


ajfclark
8-Feb-2015
1:53:34 PM
On 8/02/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>I am not looking at the squiggle 'inside' (between) his feet, but the krab with one end seemingly touching the outside of his lower foot?

Ah, you mean below as in from his perspective, not below as in lower on screen.

I can see something that could possibly be the shadow of a biner flapping on the outside edge of his lower foot, but it could just be the rope too.

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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