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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 31
Author
Tassy's hardest trad climb

jimihendrix
10/04/2014
6:14:32 PM

IdratherbeclimbingM9
10/04/2014
8:32:44 PM
Orright!
Well done CJ!

When I saw the line of the climb as the pic at start, I did not immediately recognise CJ, however the line itself reminded me of Great Shark Hunt at Mt Buffalo, due the upward right curving nature of the slopey crack involved.

When I watched it and realised it was CJ, I thought to myself Gd 29 and similar to GSH, he should get this no worries ~> and he did ~> orright!


So, does this make a free ascent of Australia's hardest trad crack line (I did not hear the final outcome of his attempts on that), but also perhaps Australia's 2nd hardest trad crack climb as a new route, in CJ's bag?

ajfclark
10/04/2014
9:28:01 PM
Yeah, he went back and ticked GSH a week or two later.
drdeviousii
11/04/2014
9:50:40 AM
We have to be the arseholes to mention the bolt in the title frame?

ajfclark
11/04/2014
9:56:11 AM
I think the line of bolts is another route? Late in the clip you can see a few more heading straight up from that one.

Is one of the shots horizontally flipped? The line starts heading left to right with the belayer in the bottom left, then at 1:12 the line is right to left with the belayer in bottom right until 1:30 when it when it flips and the rope and everything is back the other way? The hangers on the bolts at 1:14 are suddenly backwards too. Why was this done?
Cam McKenzie
11/04/2014
10:15:06 AM
(http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/2014/01/14/New+Routes+and+News+2014?focusedCommentId=328008155#comment-328008155):

Holy Moly! Just sent the best route of my life. At the Star Factory. Its all gear. All placed on lead on the redpoint. None of the bolts of any of the routes on this cliff were clipped for the ascent. I strongly suggest not clipping them for future ascents, although it would be a great climb to go up Hubris into the finish of Simply the Best. Many options with link ups on this cliff. The Star Factory is still cranking out some amazing routes!!!
***** Hubris 30m 29
Start up the offwidth roof L of Simply the Best. Up the line to the higher of the two traversing cracks via some committing moves. Traverse R climbing past STB. Clipping the bolts on that route is a serious no-no. Continue to the flaring corner for the, dare I say it, DIABOLICAL crux sequence. Continue up the line. The climb finishes when you are standing on top of the cliff. You need a 5 friend and 4 camalot for the bottom offwidth. The rest of the route takes all sorts of gear. Double rack from green alien to #2 camalots with a bunch of slings or just use two ropes.
John Fischer, April 03 2014

IdratherbeclimbingM9
11/04/2014
5:28:11 PM
On 10/04/2014 ajfclark wrote:
>Yeah, he went back and ticked GSH a week or two later.

He went back during the week after I belayed him on it, but the feedback I got from him re that particular attempt was that he didn't get it at that time, which surprised me...

I am now wondering if he went back (wouldn't surprise me), yet again? Do you have a link to a blog or something confirming the ascent?

PS; I don't actually doubt you, as when I belayed him, he was within a bees knee of getting it, just looking for the final proof is all....

ajfclark
11/04/2014
11:11:57 PM
Someone mentioned it to me but I don't recall who. I'll confirm for you at some point when I next bump into him.

jimihendrix
12/04/2014
10:08:55 AM
The falling shot was flipped. 180 degrees. This is simply to put the cliff at the top of the frame rather than the bottom. I think it gives a better perspective of the fall and makes it look as if the climber is not just climbing on the ground.

I agree however that it does affect the continuity of the climb.

I have had criticisms in the past of actually not flipping footage and leaving it looking like the climber is on the ground. Can't please everyone i guess.

ajfclark
12/04/2014
12:03:12 PM
Could you upload a version with that shot around the right way so we can see what it looks like?

jimihendrix
12/04/2014
2:18:17 PM
who cares. go and climb it

ajfclark
12/04/2014
2:55:44 PM
I was just interested to see what the original looked like so I could try and understand why you changed this shot.

JamesMc
12/04/2014
4:03:47 PM
Just held your screen up to a mirror.
Will_P
14/04/2014
12:08:12 PM
Nice little film there! Looks desperately hard (the soundtrack and slo-mo reduces that impression). You guys drink some fancy coffee, but you brew it right.
One Day Hero
14/04/2014
6:18:35 PM
Looks like a good line. I reckon you should either chop those bolts or accept that they're part of the route. Suggesting that people climb past bolts at their face without clipping them "for the proper tick" is pretty contrived, don't you think?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
14/04/2014
6:27:43 PM
On 14/04/2014 One Day Hero wrote:
>Looks like a good line. I reckon you should either chop those bolts or
>accept that they're part of the route. Suggesting that people climb past
>bolts at their face without clipping them "for the proper tick" is pretty
>contrived, don't you think?

In this particular case, that is an interesting question, ... as the bolted routes (I presume), were there first.

E. Wells
14/04/2014
9:12:48 PM
So the gear nearest the bolt blew when attempting a (diabolical)crux....when a small peice 'blows' does it effect the rock? Why not clip the bolt. (aaah here we go)
johny
17/04/2014
10:21:14 PM
Yeah about the bolts. I agree its a bit weird to not clip fixed gear on a route. There are three more cracks left to climb on that section of cliff (grades 28-30) and all of them are effected by existing bolts. Some of the bolts will definately be removed. Once the cracks are all climbed we will consider the bolts again. Its not my decision.

The gear ripped because I just screwed up! I was pumped and chucked in a bad cam. There is obvious to place bomber gear that I used on the red point. The route has so much gear it really does not matter if you mess up a few pieces. The bolts around the crack are unnecessary.

We may clean up that video and put it up on youtube in the near future, but more than likely we will just re-shoot better footage.

Hey thanks again for the belay on Shark Hunt M9! I hope to see you back at Buffalo next season.

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions!

cj

simey
18/04/2014
7:43:36 AM
You need to reshoot this video CJ, because at the moment it ain't cutting the mustard. The only thing I really saw you sending was an espresso coffee. To highlight it as Tassie's hardest trad route and yet have bolts with quickdraws dominating in every 2nd shot is just weird. The climbing in the video doesn't look any harder than most grade 18s at Araps and then you take some minor fall where the picture has been flipped for some strange reason. Maybe I need to give you some tips on how to make a climbing film.
Benny G
18/04/2014
11:41:35 AM
I agree with Simey on the vid quality, tho wasnt brutal enough to tear it to shreds, as its good to see any oz climbing filmed as theres so little of it.
interesting news in hotown is theres another new hardest trad route, pleasant screams direct on trad at grade 30, it also eliminates bolts and is more of a headpoint like cj's.
Benny

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 31
There are 31 messages in this topic.

 

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