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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Author
Matt Pascoe at The Gold Mine, New Nowra

nmonteith
17/06/2013
8:11:31 AM
A little video I made showing a couple of the new harder routes at the Gold Mine crag.

maxdacat
17/06/2013
9:29:45 AM
Nice - stuff - but how did you switch angles when he was pulling the lip on the 29?

nmonteith
17/06/2013
10:17:12 AM
On 17/06/2013 maxdacat wrote:
>Nice - stuff - but how did you switch angles when he was pulling the lip
>on the 29?

I shot that at a different time. I actually wish I had more 2nd angle stuff but the batteries died, thus my panic "jump jump jump" trying to get Matt to jump off - the camera was about to go dead flat!
maxdacat
17/06/2013
10:34:26 AM
ah now i see it....he has one less qd on his left gear loop in the left shot. apart from that massive detail it's quite seamless :p
mikllaw
17/06/2013
12:22:30 PM
1:45 is a long drive for NSW, but nothing if you are a Victorian. It's an amazing cliff and definately worth a visit. Endless stepped overhangs.

Benjenga
17/06/2013
1:06:36 PM
Loving all the short flicks you have been releasing lately Neil, keep them up. So much better watching rope climbing them bouldering.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
17/06/2013
2:17:12 PM
I agree with the comments about seeing vids of roped climbing vs bouldering.
Now all we need is more vids of soloing vs roped climbing ... heh, heh, heh.

>Hardcatch Pipertron...
... So if Matt was allowed to drop further, would the pendulum into the rockface below have been any less severe?
~> I doubt it. ☺


>Camera and edit Monty
Why does your voice in that vid sound like a cartoon character?
Were you wearing your harness too tightly while filming?
;-)
dan_b
17/06/2013
5:26:21 PM
On 17/06/2013 Benjenga wrote:
>Loving all the short flicks you have been releasing lately Neil, keep them
>up. So much better watching rope climbing them bouldering.

And hearing Aussie accents instead of "venga! venga!"

miguel75
17/06/2013
7:42:18 PM
That was a cool flick. I liked the look of the second climb, very cool roofs...

Macciza
18/06/2013
12:43:45 PM
On 17/06/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
> snip ...
>>Hardcatch Pipertron...
>... So if Matt was allowed to drop further, would the pendulum into the
>rockface below have been any less severe?
>~> I doubt it
>

Definitely dodgy belaying - more rope out certainly would have helped, and a bit of a jump, rather than sitting . . .
And seriously who wears gloves belaying these days? And when using a Grigri ? Come on . . .
Mike Bee
18/06/2013
1:28:22 PM
On 18/06/2013 Macciza wrote:
>>>Hardcatch Pipertron...
>>... So if Matt was allowed to drop further, would the pendulum into the
>>rockface below have been any less severe?
>>~> I doubt it
>>
>
>Definitely dodgy belaying - more rope out certainly would have helped,
>and a bit of a jump, rather than sitting . . .
>And seriously who wears gloves belaying these days? And when using a Grigri
>? Come on . . .

It looked like there was an attempted jump, perhaps it was a bit early, or perhaps there was a lot of drag over the lips of the previous rooves.

Not sure what, but the catch definitely could have been softer.

nmonteith
18/06/2013
3:18:42 PM
The problem with catching this route is you can't see the climber when they are above the lip - and it's very hard to judge when you jump into a catch when someone is coming down and towards you.

Macciza
18/06/2013
3:31:36 PM
What crap! If the guys jumping from there you should have a whole lot of slack out - rope on the ground in front of you sort of thing . . .
And you don't need to be able to see anything to judge when to jump, feel works fine . . . .

Pat
18/06/2013
6:19:17 PM
What was the knot that he used to tie in?

Macciza
18/06/2013
6:24:42 PM
Bowline - quick-tie method. The straight bit pulled through actually ends up being the bit that goes around the rope in the finished knot
kp
18/06/2013
10:06:32 PM
Um i think that Matt weighs around 20kg less than most climbers. The weight difference makes dynamic belaying tricky, especially with a gri gri. Combined with rope drag from the roof its a recipe for being slammed.

Piper is normally a great belayer btw!!!

There are 16 messages in this topic.

 

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