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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

E9 6C

9:37:34 AM

Not really my thing, there's a lot of rambling speech in this that is too hard for me to parse and not much detail on the climbing itself.

11:14:25 AM
Ah the 80s!
10:50:50 AM
That old dude was amazing! He must be sooooo high all the time. He talked wank every time he came on.

9:05:58 PM
Redhead comes across as a total tool. Worst acting award nominee.

Eduardo Slabofvic
9:34:20 PM
Yeah, and his "art" was just as big a w@nk

9:48:05 AM
On 18/01/2013 pmonks wrote:
>Ah the 80s!

+ ego (+ weed ?) = the negative aspects, as it came across like a drama piece.
However I could see the artyfarty aspect too, and that has it's own kind of 'cool'*.
(* Often a bit hard to relate to though, as art is in the eye of the beholder...)

It was still good to see the route, rock type, and some of it's holds up close, and get a sense of what E9 6c involves.
~> Yeah, I can see that it takes a special state of mind to lead a climb of that nature.
Nick Clow
10:09:25 AM
I have my opinion as to who the w@nkers are.

E. Wells
10:54:38 AM
was he calling using a small hold 'clogging' ? Masturbates in crazy town and leaves the crags and tarns pure and clean. I feel this way about the dam cliffs.
4:07:17 PM
What the hell was that all about?
Some guy climbed a route called Indian Face... some other guy top-roped it first, then soloed it.... and in between the FA drew a picture of "two climbers on a route" - which looked very much like someone spreading their legs & a dick&balls squiggle.. 6.20 - look for it!

4:18:42 PM
From the clip;
"Lift a finger and you are off."

This bloke isn't allowing for the fact of the future progression of climbing.
If this climb is that tenuous, then how bad will E10 6C be?

E. Wells
4:45:36 PM
Thats when you cant even CONSIDER lifting a finger
5:13:29 PM
why did watching that leave me thinking Neil from The Young One's would make a really bold climber?
Dr Nick
7:26:54 PM
Neil was an aid climber. He used nails to hold himself to the wall.

There's a better film called Indian Face that was an inclusion on Stone Monkey which shows a lot more footage, and makes you realise just how batshit insane both of them were.

5:07:09 PM
On 21/01/2013 dangermouth wrote:
>was he calling using a small hold 'clogging' ?

Are you serious? You don't have a clue what they're talking about do you ?
He is talking about Cloggy = Clogwyn Du'r Arddu - Look it up . . .


6:11:05 PM
On 22/01/2013 Macciza wrote:
>On 21/01/2013 dangermouth wrote:
>>was he calling using a small hold 'clogging' ?
>Are you serious? You don't have a clue what there talking about do you
>He is talking about Cloggy = Clogwyn Du'r Arddu - Look it up . . .

Redhead is Welsh, obviously got lost in translation, cut the man some slack now will you?

Mae fy hofrenfad yn llawn llyswennod
Nick Clow
8:10:06 AM
He is certainly not Welsh, he's English. He left Wales to live in France some years ago and, at the time, had quite a lot to say about Welsh nationalism and small-mindedness.

9:13:42 AM
There was a saying "Come home to a real fire - buy a cottage in Wales". The welsh really resented the english taking advantage of the depressed Welsh economy to buy cheap holiday places. Around Llanberis in 1983 there were a few burnt-out cottages about.
Nick Clow
9:26:58 AM

From the accounts of Haston, Pritchard and Dawes living in Llanberis in the early 80s (given Thatcherism, unemployment, glue-sniffing, aggro, pi$$ etc) was pretty edgy.

He probably stood about as much chance of getting his head kicked in town as he did of wrapping himself up on the rock. (He sort of alludes to this in the film.)

11:08:24 AM
On 23/01/2013 Nick Clow wrote:
>He probably stood about as much chance of getting his head kicked in town
>as he did of wrapping himself up on the rock. (He sort of alludes to this
>in the film.)
Painting a mural on Cloggy would not have increased his popularity much either!
Nick Clow
4:48:19 PM
From your comment above, I take it you were in Llanberis in 1983? Climb on the Rainbow Slab?

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