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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Author
Odyssey A Climbing Road Movie: Free till 20/Nov

ajfclark
13/11/2012
1:13:03 PM
Hot Aches' latest: http://hotaches.com/shop/odyssey/

Stream it for free till the 20th.

salty crag
15/11/2012
11:06:54 PM
Shite I enjoyed that!!!! Trads my first love and I somehow related to that vid more than any i have seen for a while, no loud raucous sound track, only a few screams and yells, a few f#*k ups and a bit of fear. Moss, undergrowth, rain etc. Unloading the bulk of the rack prior to the crux... sorry Ben and Dan gonna be my standard from now on.
Truth is I haven't climbed for for a month (work, bike, swimming and surfing have been main priority) and i'm suffering withdrawal. Need to hit the woody hard for a while.

ajfclark
16/11/2012
8:14:13 AM
Yeah, only a few more days to stream it for free too.
PThomson
16/11/2012
8:43:51 AM
Of more interest to me is that the Wideboyz feature film comes out on 19/11/2012... Awesome!

Now if only I could climb off-width...
crm114
17/11/2012
11:13:29 PM
I really enjoyed that too. There was some comfy looking moss on at least one of the climbs too which might have softened a fall!

I noticed that at least 4 or 5 times, the climbers turfed their remaining gear 2/3 or 3/4 into the climb, clipping it onto their final piece of gear (it appeared to for the last thin section on the relevant climbs which presumably means there was not much gear).

In at least one case, the climber placed several cams, clipped her gear onto a sling attached to the cams and then climbed up a little further and clipped a piton and then went for broke.

I have not seen this done before, particularly on trad stuff (and stuff which these guys were mainly doing onsight/flash).

I am assuming it was either:

(a) because there really was no gear and the fall was otherwise safe - ie high);

(b) to lose some weight for the final fingery bits;

(c) to make them commit; or

(d) a bit of everything.

Has anyone else seen/heard of this (particularly for trad onsights/flashes) and got any suggestions beyond this..?

Cheers

Adrian

salty crag
17/11/2012
11:35:58 PM
Wondering same thing re turfing gear near the end of a climb. I like to have a bit of a selection to build a belay, ok I suppose if you know there's permanent gear in place.

ajfclark
18/11/2012
7:59:35 AM
Egosan did it to me once on a route at Black Ians. I think it was to make the route as hard as possible for the second.
crm114
18/11/2012
7:41:11 PM
Pretty keen to see the Wideboyz one too - that had an awesome blog with pics/viedo showing their training at their woody - think off-width cavities in place of hangboards etc. Very cool.

Macciza
Online Now
19/11/2012
10:01:29 PM
Awesome - should be required watching at all climbing gyms . . .
I think it gives a valuable insight into the traditional climbing ethic . .

Re the gear leaving . . .
A lot of these were onsight/flash ascents so you don't know what gear is going to fit . .
Often you can ended up taking far more than you could possibly place
If it says it has small gear I may take a variety of small cams and offsets
If you know there is no more gear than you may as well leave it where you can . .
with the line in the corner, it may have also been to weight down a loose-ish nut, i've done that before when worried that rope movement might compromise the placement . . .

All in all it is a pretty good technique that I will probably remember to use far more often!

Cheers
MM
maadness
22/11/2012
11:20:44 AM
I was lucky enough to still be able to download this last night. What a great flik, really got me amped to get out climbing again... "Hans, watch out! There is a loose block here. I'm going to put a cam behind it, so if i fall it will come down" hahahahahahaha

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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