Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

Black Diamond: "Vario Speed Harness" Classic. One side fits all. Large (pre-threaded) quick-adjsut buckles. Wide nylon webbing. (Recommended for Gym use) $59.00
16% Off

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Author

non-goofy Euros un-bolting hand cracks

technogeekery

24/08/2012
11:02:27 AM

The doors, 8b. Beautiful line, trad ethics + mega de-bolter.

The doors - Cadarese from RAGNI DI LECCO on Vimeo.

ajfclark

24/08/2012
11:41:40 AM

A quick google search: http://www.google.com.au/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=site:chockstone.org%20The+doors+Cadarese

Finds that this is a repost: http://www.chockstone.org/forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=4&MessageID=880

I thought that tool looked familiar.

Hugh

24/08/2012
11:56:10 AM

How much damage does chopping a line of bolts do to the rock..?

uwhp510

24/08/2012
12:03:02 PM

On 24/08/2012 Hugh wrote:
>How much damage does chopping a line of bolts do to the rock..?

A sh1tload less than putting them in does.

Hugh

24/08/2012
12:23:42 PM

And so after removing them you've done the damage and still don't have anything to climb
On?

One Day Hero

24/08/2012
12:25:36 PM

On 24/08/2012 Hugh wrote:
>And so after removing them you've done the damage and still don't have
>anything to climb
>On?

Yeah, I know! Like those italian idiots in the video who pull the bolts out then can't climb cause there's no bolts.......what a bunch of idiots.

Hugh

24/08/2012
12:35:10 PM

Odh. Lol...

Does it not seem really self righteous to remove the bolts...? I mean it's not like he couldn't have just by passed them and placed the gear anyway.. I mean, we're wrestling with rocks and pebbles not saving the world...

anthonycuskelly

24/08/2012
12:41:53 PM

Hugh, this argument's been done to death. Does it not seem really self righteous to install the bolts when there's another safe option? It's not like the bolters couldn't have just placed the gear on rap anyway. Excess bolting, chipping, and the like to me are indicative of a lack of respect for these places and our environment... so long term, yeah, it could be saving the world.

And yeah, he could've just passed them by, but at the same time it's not really soloing if you've got a rope on and a belayer ready if you get scared either.

Hugh

24/08/2012
12:46:38 PM

Yeah fair point.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

24/08/2012
12:54:11 PM

On 24/08/2012 anthonycuskelly wrote:
>Hugh, this argument's been done to death. Does it not seem really self
>righteous to install the bolts when there's another safe option? It's not
>like the bolters couldn't have just placed the gear on rap anyway. Excess
>bolting, chipping, and the like to me are indicative of a lack of respect
>for these places and our environment... so long term, yeah, it could be
>saving the world.
>
>And yeah, he could've just passed them by, but at the same time it's not
>really soloing if you've got a rope on and a belayer ready if you get scared
>either.

Fixed that for you with the latest link ac!
;-)

Plenty of too and fro debate for you in there Hugh...
~> Let us know if your point of view wins out, so the choppers know where to go next!
Heh, heh, heh.

anthonycuskelly

24/08/2012
1:00:46 PM

Thanks M9...

Back on topic... looks like a really nice climb (though way too hard for me). He seems to have it dialled in to the "just enough gear" point by the end!

cruze

24/08/2012
1:02:41 PM

That rock looks impeccable and the climbing fiendishly pumpy - although he doesn't seem to get too worked up.

Hugh

24/08/2012
1:02:54 PM

Hahaha it's alright, I'm really just teasing, I know how passionate some people are on here. I'm a trad climber myself. Could count on one hand the number of times I've sport climbed in the last two years

Will_P

24/08/2012
2:15:45 PM

Taking it back off-topic ('Don't clip them if you don't like them')... I just read Steve Roper's 'Camp 4' about the evolution of climbing in Yosemite from the 1950's to the 1970's, and there was discussion about the two viewpoints in the '50's (with pins too), with the 'pro' side placing fixed gear, and the 'free' side freeing the moves and pulling the gear, and the 'pro' side saying don't clip it if you want the 'free' experience. Is that likely the first time this argument came around, or could it have started elsewhere? Maybe the alps, but surely no self-respecting Euro would free moves then pull bolts or pins?

benjenga

24/08/2012
3:45:35 PM

Does anybody else think that the 8b grade is a touch on the sugarbag side. I am not saying that I could climb it but it looks like pretty good edges and good feet through all the hard parts??

citationx

24/08/2012
4:19:34 PM

On 24/08/2012 benjenga wrote:
>Does anybody else think that the 8b grade is a touch on the sugarbag side.
>I am not saying that I could climb it but it looks like pretty good edges
>and good feet through all the hard parts??

It might just be that it's a 35m overhanging finger crack with some crimps at the to. how's that stamina? (at the glen a 12m overhanging jug-fest gets 21...)

Pat

24/08/2012
4:32:12 PM

Great looking line - like Little Thor on 'roids.

Superstu

24/08/2012
4:32:14 PM

He certainly doesn't climb it in the same style as the yankee crack masters like honnold, croft, skinner attack the steep finger stuff, with more layaways and less finger torquing, but that may just be the way it climbs.

Superstu

24/08/2012
4:41:24 PM

Meh, merely just anudder 8a+....

http://hazelfindlay.wordpress.com/2012/08/19/cadarese-sweat-blood-and-the-doors-8b-5-13d-trad/

vonClimb

24/08/2012
8:42:18 PM

On 24/08/2012 Superstu wrote:
>He certainly doesn't climb it in the same style as the yankee crack masters
>like honnold, croft, skinner attack the steep finger stuff, with more layaways
>and less finger torquing, but that may just be the way it climbs.

Its not surprising that he is reluctant to shove his toes into the crack wearing those miura's. Because they crimp your toes a little, I find them excruciating to use crack climbing.

Some parts of that crack look so thin, maybe layback was the best option. But I'm sure there is more jamming and lockoffs to be had.

There are 20 messages in this topic.