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Chockstone Forum - Climbing Videos

Post links and comments about your favourite climbing flicks

Author
Jenn Flemming 5.13R trad.

benjenga
10/08/2012
4:49:16 PM
So with all the bolt and bolt chopping talk it good to see so good scary trad.

http://vimeo.com/m/32220650
egosan
10/08/2012
5:07:08 PM
OMG! I have the biggest crush!

Macciza
10/08/2012
6:39:35 PM
Thanks Ben,
Hopefully that will help some people understand it a bit better . . .

And yeah, absolutely, What a girl , what a girl, what a mighty-bold girl . . .

Certainly hope that never gets retro-runged . . .
bobic
10/08/2012
7:09:50 PM
Great climber but I feel a bit jipped. She's obviously climbed the route a hundred times knowing all the placements. Gear's all racked in order and goes straight in. And she's on top rope for the runout bit. So the "R" in the grading stands for "runout"? Never heard that.
dalai
10/08/2012
7:15:07 PM
On 10/08/2012 bobic wrote:
>Great climber but I feel a bit jipped. She's obviously climbed the route
>a hundred times knowing all the placements. Gear's all racked in order
>and goes straight in. And she's on top rope for the runout bit. So the
>"R" in the grading stands for "runout"? Never heard that.

Have you watched it? Run out is the 5.12 section after placing the alien and n#1 wire till a far way out she steps left to finally place another piece...

Also it is 5.13 trad - so grade 28+! Yes some people out there can onsight these climbs, but most will make some tries either on TR or on the sharp end.

Macciza
10/08/2012
7:58:32 PM
On 10/08/2012 bobic wrote:
>Great climber but I feel a bit jipped. She's obviously climbed the route
>a hundred times knowing all the placements. Gear's all racked in order
>and goes straight in. And she's on top rope for the runout bit. So the
>"R" in the grading stands for "runout"? Never heard that.

Umm, it takes maybe a few goes at the most to work out the pieces,
and one could eye up those placements pretty well from the ground.
If there is a single No 1 wire somewhere you don't take a full rack.
Same thing with the racking order - it's not rocket science . . .
Umm how much hard trad did you say you'd done again . . .
simey
10/08/2012
11:55:33 PM
From what you see in the film and the way she talks, I doubt very much that the route was tackled ground-up. I suspect there was a fair bit of top-rope rehearsal and the gear totally dialled before she went for the lead. That's not to say that it is not a good effort climbing 5.13 placing the gear on the actual ascent, but it is a pity no mention is made of her approach to the climb beforehand. As for the climb being run-out, well I don't think it looks any more run-out than most Arapiles routes. And all the nonsense about a #1 stopper or whatever it was. Those things are bomber in good placements.


Macciza
11/08/2012
12:17:20 AM
Simey, you're sounding like a grumpy, old man . . .
The way she talked sounded like she walks the walk to me . .
Nothing to indicate the route wasn't tackled ground-up . . .
She may have TR but , a fair-bit? any evidence for either . .
Well you have already downplayed her effort so why not?
Maybe she's not playing herself up - it may be dangerous ie R . . .
Yeah it would have been good to see if she took whips on the shoot . .
I imagine it's like any of the 28R's at Araps, graded by the climbing community
Yeah it must be a good placement, 2kn rating I think she said,
Considering it was the first female ascent I suppose the blokes hadn't worried

Can you do a write-up of Moniques recent ascent . . .
simey
11/08/2012
1:08:45 AM
On 11/08/2012 Macciza wrote:
>Simey, you're sounding like a grumpy, old man . . .
I assure you I have nothing to be grumpy about.

>The way she talked sounded like she walks the walk to me . .
Bullshit she talked like she walks the walk. She is a cute girl who could have been talking about retro-bolting at York and you would have still been smitten.

>Nothing to indicate the route wasn't tackled ground-up . . .
Given the video starts with her talking about the moves and gear before she starts climbing indicates to me that she isn't trying to hide the fact that she had rehearsed the route beforehand. And then on the opening moves she has a high piece pre-placed and clipped with a long sling too!

>She may have TR but , a fair-bit? any evidence for either . .
You either top-rope it or you don't. I just think if she had gone ground-up she would have conveyed the emotions, thoughts and strategies involved with such an approach during the film.

>Well you have already downplayed her effort so why not?
I'm not trying to downplay the fact that at the end of the day she has climbed a reasonably hard route placing gear on the actual ascent, but I think the video probably doesn't tell the whole story of her approach to the climb.

>Maybe she's not playing herself up - it may be dangerous ie R . . .
G, PG, R, X ratings are even harder to apply to routes than grades. And without the specifics of her ascent given, it is hard to assess how dangerous or significant her ascent really was.

>Yeah it would have been good to see if she took whips on the shoot . .
>I imagine it's like any of the 28R's at Araps, graded by the climbing community
We don't have 28R's at Arapiles. We have 28s without any dubious protection rating.

>Yeah it must be a good placement, 2kn rating I think she said,
>Considering it was the first female ascent I suppose the blokes hadn't
>worried
Not quite sure what you mean.

>Can you do a write-up of Moniques recent ascent . . .
I don't know anything about Monique's recent ascent. But I do know that Whistling Kite is 4 grades harder than the climb in the video.

ajfclark
11/08/2012
8:48:56 AM
On 10/08/2012 simey wrote:
>And all the nonsense about a #1 stopper or whatever it was. Those things are bomber in good placements.

Really?

I would've thought RPs would've been your preference in cracks that size. Sitting looking at them in my hand now and the #1 stopper would fit where a #2 RP goes, but has the same thickness of wire as a #1 RP. They're only rated to 2kN and say "For direct aid only" on the instruction sheets.

Is BD blowing smoke up our arses?

E. Wells
11/08/2012
11:27:42 AM
with an 8mm rope and a skinny bird giving you a dynamic belay ( and two better peices 2 ft below, and a pre-placed wire above) 2 kn sounds bomber. Nice climbing though, I have to agree watching the process is sometimes more entertaining than the picture perfect send. But hey.....cool vid.
Mike Bee
11/08/2012
2:28:27 PM
A fine effort (I don't think I'll ever climb 28 in any style, let alone trad, gear in hand), but I certainly believe she TRd it first and preplanned all the gear. Not trying to detract from the climb or the effort, but it wasn't a "pure" ascent as many people would define it.

It didn't look that run out to me, and if the two pieces below the baby stopper were good, perhaps MA15 might be a better rating than R.
dalai
11/08/2012
4:00:37 PM
On 11/08/2012 simey wrote:
. .
>Given the video starts with her talking about the moves and gear before
>she starts climbing indicates to me that she isn't trying to hide the fact
>And then on the opening moves she has a high piece pre-placed and clipped with a long sling too!

From Mountain Project listed there as 5.13a PG13

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/fraid-line/106135595

Description

This is another great route on a wall already stacked with classics. While none of its cruxes are super hard, the pump and fear factor on this route are both rather sizeable. Numerous cruxes culminate with an awkward 12- reach move with a #2 RP below one's feet. A bit of a spicy meatball....

Location

Start left of Center Route as for Surf's Up, then break right underneath a roof with good holds to stem on for the feet. Get some gear, then make a reachy-ish move to a spiky undercling. From here, several more mini-cruxes culminate with an exciting reach for a good hold ... traverse left into the last few feet of Surf's Up and use the Surf's Up two piton anchor. A yellow Alien and a large nut (BD #10 or so) back this up well.

Protection

Stick clip two fixed pitons to start, then mainly small nuts (RPs useful) and a few small cams along with a hand-sized piece or two. Also, one fixed Toucan piton

shortman
11/08/2012
4:35:20 PM
On 10/08/2012 egosan wrote:
>OMG! I have the biggest crush!
>

Step in line. Hot hot hot!
Mike Bee
11/08/2012
5:46:33 PM
On 11/08/2012 dalai wrote:
>From Mountain Project listed there as 5.13a PG13

>Stick clip two fixed pitons to start,

Ha. That certainly reads differently than the video suggests.

On 11/08/2012 shortman wrote:
>On 10/08/2012 egosan wrote:
>>OMG! I have the biggest crush!
>>
>
>Step in line. Hot hot hot!

She wasn't that good I didn't think. If she wasn't climbing 5.13, she wouldn't rate a mention at all really.

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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