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FIRST TIME TO GRAMPIANS, Partners/guides??

xtonemonkey

22-Apr-2005
5:38:46 PM

Hi,

Looking for some recommendations for climbs at the Grampians/Arapilies. I'm from Singapore and I climb up to 7a+ French, not really familiar with the AU grading and how stiff they are. I'll be coming into Melbourne on the 20th May and will be heading there right away with some AU mates of mine that have never climbed there either. So I am looking for some beta on some good routes.....something in the range of a 5b-6b+ french. i'm interested in both sport and trad routes and multi pitches of course. What sort of accomodation is available in the area?

It would be great if anyone would like to hook up with us and do some climbing together.

Looking forward to your responses

Cheers,

Ian Lim


surfandclimb

22-Apr-2005
9:16:03 PM

Do yourself a favor and head straight to araps. $2.00 a night to camp (water and toilets). About 3000 different climbs on the best rock around, great crew to share a beer with at night, close to transport, and about a 2 minute stroll from your tent to the rock. What more could you want???? Spend $40.00? and buy the "arapiles selected climbs" guidebook and your half way to a great trip.

P.S the books co author is SIMEY, big bloke brownish hair, probably more likely to find him with a footy in his hand than a harness but if you buy him a beer and put on a rams footy jumper on a saturday morning and you might just get your guide book signed.

xtonemonkey

25-Apr-2005
3:38:39 PM

Thanks, will take note of that......so Arapilies is better than the grampians???


Super Saiyan

25-Apr-2005
5:09:04 PM

@ xtonemonkey- you'll find that people are either pro-gramps or pro-araps. It really depends on what u want. If u want a larger climbing community on hand, cheap camping, and trad climbing go to araps. if u want to clip some bolts as well, free camping (no one pays the fees anyway) and awesome scenery, go to gramps. I am pro-gramps. It was my first outdoor venture so i have a soft spot for it... and less queues for routes...

kieranl

25-Apr-2005
8:16:36 PM

Both Arapiles and Grampians are both great.
Big differences :
Arapiles is one place with walking access from camp to thousands of climbs and guaranteed to have climbers in residence.
The Grampians are many cliffs spread over a large area (approx 100km long). You will have to drive from your accomodation or camp to most cliffs. Unless you prearrange it, you may not meet any other climbers.
There are good Mentz/Tempest select guides for both areas.
Arapiles is a good starting point because you can make contact with people and get started on a game plan. It's also less than an hour from Arapiles to the nearest major climbing area in the Grampians (Stapylton). With a car, you can day-trip from Arapiles to many Grampians crags or drop over to an area for a couple of nights.
Enjoy yourself.

xtonemonkey

26-Apr-2005
3:38:02 PM

Thanks guys for the info....

From what I gather , the grampians has more variety...as in sport and trad. (correct me if i'm wrong) Then I'll probably head to the grampians

Would you be able to recommend some places or routes that you think are excellent for first time visitors. Some where that has a mix of both sport and trad routes ranging from 5b-6c french. Some where that has routes for 4 days worth of climbing.

Any advice on the weather......does it rain alot in late may??

Would anyone be interested to hook up, even for just a day

Ian

gfdonc

26-Apr-2005
4:36:54 PM

Arapiles has some 2000 routes .. just how much variety can you handle?
(Someone give me an accurate number 'cos I just plucked that out of thin air!)

If you want a remote (bush) setting the Grampians is the ticket. If you just want to climb great routes on fantastic rock with easy access then Arapiles.

Love 'em both, it will be hard to make a wrong choice.

dalai

26-Apr-2005
4:48:10 PM

You won't find many Sport routes at either location in the grades you list.

See http://www.chockstone.org/Grampians/Sport/Grampians_sport.html to give you an idea of the sport routes available in the Grampians at lower grades. The Grampians are a large area with each many cliffs and offering at most only a few sport routes if at all. A lot of driving for so little.

Arapiles is far more user friendly, with thousands of climbs accessible by foot from the central campsite.

Blue Mountains in NSW may offer more of what you are after.

xtonemonkey

26-Apr-2005
7:37:50 PM

So there isn't really that much sport routes after all.....the pictures i see from the link above show varied rock types...could some one tell me what I will be encountering.
Looks like i've got to relook at my plans......and check out with my mates.....what they wanna do. (A singaporean taking two aussies out climbing) .

What about around melbourne.....will have a week or so....any recommended sport climbing I can check out thats not too far to get to.

Appreciate all the advice

Cheers


Jackie

26-Apr-2005
9:33:34 PM

hey hey
there isnt much at all in the area around 5/6a (17/18 ozzie) thats bolted. You'll find the odd route inthe gramps, but prob not enuf to keep you and your mates too busy with. Prob the best alternative is to get to Arapiles or Summerday Valley in the Grampians and do some nice easy trad stuff with them. LIke evryone else has said, Araps is great for easy low grade multipitching, and you'll all feel out there and adventuring.
Apart from Gramps or Araps (two mega amazing climbing destinations!) locally to melbs there isnt much sport stuff. I wouldnt recommend any other places apart from these - Unless of course you want to head to Mt Buffalo, there are some lower grade bolted routes there (youll also need to place some gear.) It can be scary and run out but lots of fun, look on this site for beta on buffalo. Could also be getting a bit cold. Buffalo is amazing. Let us know where you head and might come meet you guys on a weekend or somehting
seeya, jackie


Rich

26-Apr-2005
10:00:16 PM

On 25/04/2005 obsessedclimber wrote:
>@ xtonemonkey- you'll find that people are either pro-gramps or pro-araps.

I'm pro-climbing, where do i sit?

xtonemonkey-
> So there isn't really that much sport routes after all.....the pictures i see from the link above show >varied rock types...could some one tell me what I will be encountering.
>Looks like i've got to relook at my plans......and check out with my mates.....what they wanna do. >(A singaporean taking two aussies out climbing) .

as a lot of our rock is highly featured bolts are not required where there is adequate (many times a lot more than adequate!) bomber protection. If i was you, i would reconsider my grades a do some of the easier classic lines at arapiles. You'll love it and won't regret it. (unless if rains all week.) :(


Super Saiyan

26-Apr-2005
10:30:36 PM

annnnnnnnnnd in the blue corner...

what do u mean there is no sport climbing in the grampians?? there is a whole guide dedicated to under-25 sport!

Van Diemans, Sentinal Cave, some parts of Taipan, Spurt, Amnesty, Centurian, Red Rocks, the Gallery, Millenium Caves!

Game set match. Grampians.


Jackie

26-Apr-2005
10:33:30 PM

yeah but he is talking bout bringing nonclimby friends out, i hardly think they'll enjoy throwing themselves at 22ish steep sport spankers all weekend.


Super Saiyan

27-Apr-2005
9:44:53 AM

put em on The Dope Man. If they dont do it, they'll give up climbing from embarassment! couple of good 18-20's at sentinal...

xtonemonkey

27-Apr-2005
6:01:58 PM

oK looks like i'd better head to arapilies instead and work on some easier trad stuff. And then drive to grampians for some sport routes.

I'll be arriving on the 21st May.SAT....anyone heading out on that weekend?. (jackie?)


Jackie

27-Apr-2005
7:42:36 PM

hey might be, its a little way off for me at mo, but sounds like a good idea (depending on weather and all) will PM you

xtonemonkey

29-Apr-2005
1:56:44 PM

Any recommendations for gym climbing???

Does anyone need any gear from singapore, I know stuff here is almost half the price. If you have anything in mind just let me know. just to give you a rough idea 5.10, Madrock shoes here average 100 AUD and 60m ropes average 200 AUD.
Jackie??


nmonteith

29-Apr-2005
4:48:27 PM

On 29/04/2005 xtonemonkey wrote:
>Does anyone need any gear from singapore, I know stuff here is almost
>half the price.

We can get Madrocks for about $140 in Oz - and 60m ropes can be bought for under $200.

xtonemonkey

29-Apr-2005
4:57:33 PM

I think i got it wrong its 70m ropes that average 200 AUD and i don't think you can beat the prices on shoes here.....especially for 5.10s

I guess then nobody needs anything....just thought i ask.


nmonteith

29-Apr-2005
4:59:51 PM

sorry about sounding all grumpy! i am sure some others would love to get their hands on some cheap gear! It is 'go climbing' time right now for most Australians - so you might have to wait until Monday for some offers!

There are 24 messages in this topic.