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Ice climbing partner

MP

1-Aug-2015
3:03:57 PM

Looking for ice climbing partner for prospective Canadian Rockies (or NW US) trip early 2016.

Currently lead WI 3/4, second harder. Only climbed WI in NZ (independent trips 2010-2015). Looking for safe climber, (probably) around same age, with similar (or greater) experience, good fitness, subdued ego and good sense of humour.

Located Adelaide region, South Australia, so ideally hook-up with local, but interstate can also work. See how we go on rock with view to future scheming.

Log-in to check out my basic bio and access email address for reply and further comms (not here thanks).

beean

2-Aug-2015
7:28:21 AM

If you want any info on climbing in the Rockies let me know. Many lines are in or out as the months progress due to avalanche risk and melt/freeze. I also have access to a copy of the elusive guide book.

I live in Canmore and spent my first season on ice here. End of season I could lead 4-/4 and second a grade harder depending on the conditions. I'm down to partner up and try some routes when you're over here if it's early in the year. Any later than end of Feb I'll be skiing, not climbing.

Damien Gildea

2-Aug-2015
9:30:55 AM

The CanRockies are awesome and well worth a trip, but Australians should also look at the Siguniang area of China. It's closer and cheaper. I haven't been, but friends have climbed there a few times and I had a trip planned for last January.

Conditions are not quite as reliable as the Rockies and there's much less beta, but it's a bit more adventurous and you don't spend 2hrs before dawn driving all over the place. There's easy ice within walking distance from a guest house, but bigger and harder things, some unclimbed, further up the valleys.

There's a bit on the net if you Google - Siguniang, Changpinggou, Rilong, etc

wallwombat

2-Aug-2015
10:48:39 AM

Siguniang looks amazing.

MP

2-Aug-2015
11:51:14 AM

Thanks for the comments guys.

Kieran I’ll drop you a line sometime – thanks!

Will do some research on the Siguniang area.
Other not-so-distant venue I’ve been hearing of and read the odd bit about is Japan, but can’t find much detailed stuff on the net.

Damien Gildea

2-Aug-2015
1:22:19 PM

Apparently there's heaps in Japan, though not Polar Circus, Weeping Wall type stuff. It's regularly reliably cold, but maybe too cold,as a friend who's climbed there a bit says it's often too brittle, and you wade through powder to get to it.
http://iceclimbingjapan.com/about-me-japan-china-ice-climbing/ is run by Ed, an Australian ex-pat there

The other relatively-near place is South Korea. Accessible but possibly crowded as there's not a great deal of it, but there are plenty of Korean climbers. Towangsong has traditionally been the main area, I think.
http://www.koreaherald.com/view.php?ud=20150123001064

MP

2-Aug-2015
7:28:44 PM

... check this out - same region (Siguniang area; the link for same guide on the Japan ice climbing page above didn't work):

http://www.audreysniezek.com/writing/Roadtrip/shuangqiaogou/20110428-sqg-guide.pdf

MP

2-Aug-2015
7:30:02 PM

PS. damned good and interesting site that ice climb Japan one!

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