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Anyone up for Power Dive on Mt Abrupt?

robertter

3-Mar-2014
6:51:46 PM

Hey!

Im staying in Dunkeld at the moment and I have been staring Mt Abrupt from my room window for almost two months now without being able to go climb anything on it for the lack of climbing partners in the area.

There is a climb called Power Dive (14) which I would love to jump if somebody is up for that. The grampians selected climbs guide book tells its 6 pitches and about 175 meters. Sounds like an easy adventure route to me. Anyone up for it?

Any hints about the area or the climb are welcome too. The picture in the book is pretty crappy.

Cheers,
Roope

JamesMc

3-Mar-2014
7:35:07 PM

Classic route

kieranl

3-Mar-2014
8:55:37 PM

I thought was a good route when I repeated it back in the seventies. But some people disagree and the rock on at least the first 2 pitches is soft. Be careful and wear helmets. There was a very serious accident on the climb a few years back. The top pitches also break down and it's hard to route-find. We didn't locate the notorious traverse pitch. Oh, and when it's in the shade it's likely to be freezing. I remember the third pitch as being the best.
In summary, an adventure up an impressive buttress but don't expect great climbing throughout.

Wendy

4-Mar-2014
9:38:51 AM

It's a fun day out, but not a classic route in terms of line or rock. If you haven't gotten any climbing in so far, I would suggest you just rock up at Araps this weekend with the hundreds of other people and you'll find a climbing partner for the day/weekend no worries. It's only 1.5 hours away from you.

martym

4-Mar-2014
10:09:08 AM

On 3/03/2014 kieranl wrote:
>I thought was a good route when I repeated it back in the seventies. But
>some people disagree and the rock on at least the first 2 pitches is soft.
>Be careful and wear helmets. There was a very serious accident on the climb
>a few years back. The top pitches also break down and it's hard to route-find.
>We didn't locate the notorious traverse pitch. Oh, and when it's in the
>shade it's likely to be freezing. I remember the third pitch as being the
>best.
>In summary, an adventure up an impressive buttress but don't expect great
>climbing throughout.

My friend and I tried to find it for an hour, eventually settling for a scrubby corner. After cleaning out ferns and moss, slipping, breaking off ledges - he gave up. I had a crack, made it up to the top of the first ledge. Then we agreed to drive back to Arapiles, this was the shittest rock we'd seen all trip.

ajfclark

4-Mar-2014
11:40:03 AM

It is on a cliff called the cheesecake isn't it?

dhunchak

4-Mar-2014
1:11:29 PM

I'm up for it! I'm staying in Camperdown at the moment and am very keen for an adventure. I have tuesday arvos off and could be in Dunkeld by about 2:30pm, otherwise a weekend would be good. I'll pm you my details. I assume that grade 14 is not at your limit right :) Some of the routes on the cheesecake look interesting as well; unfortunately there is a large bee hive on kid gloves at the moment but if you've got a kevlar climbing suit that could come in handy. If you like bouldering, there's some stuff that would be more fun with some heavy brush work and a spotter.

Goshen

5-Mar-2014
3:18:44 PM

Do you know Jimmy? He's just moved to Dunkeld, and written up a 'new' bouldering area:
https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/grampians/mt-abrupt/area/429852435

There's a bunch of climbers coming to Dunkeld this w/end for a bit of climbing action, and I'm sure Mt Abrupt is on the list.

JimmyS

5-Mar-2014
5:50:39 PM

Hi

As Goshen has stated, I live in Dunked and am doing some bouldering here and there most nights, and am always up for a climb. Power Drive looms outside my classroom windown everyday and would also be happy to give it a crack.

There is going to be a fair few of us around this weekend so you should be able to hassle someone into doing it!

JimmyS

5-Mar-2014
5:53:00 PM

It is on a cliff called the cheesecake isn't it? [quote]

Know it's just to the north of the cheesecake I am pretty sure, on the southern cliff. Standing underneath it is the most I have done as of yet

There are 10 messages in this topic.