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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

Author
the pheonix, blue mountains
robbio
19/10/2012
8:29:30 PM
This thread hyjack needed a new topic heading, so there it is....

benjenga
19/10/2012
9:50:16 PM
Your going to want to get out there early as its going to be a hot one tomorrow.
PTHomson
20/10/2012
9:56:23 PM
Did you end up getting out, no-chalk?

I spent my day on a rap rope cleaning a 50m crack climb of cubic feet of vegetation. Yay!
robbio
21/10/2012
7:34:47 AM
Ha. So how is the cleanup on the phoenix going anyway, paul? Yeh i got out, found some random strangers and climbed at piddo in the end. good day out!
PThomson
21/10/2012
5:11:38 PM
Nice mate, what did you end up getting on? Just a heads up, if it isn't TOO hot next Saturday, Adz and Nath (and me, on belay) are gonna head out to Tarana before Reel Rock. Those guys are psyched for some granite.

The top 50% of the Phoenix is clean... I need another day to finish cleaning the bottom 50% (below the lowest off-width), and to finish working on the new access track. So, hopefully by the end of next weekend it will be climb-able... Probably need to wait for a decent rainstorm to wash any remaining ambient dirt out of the crack though. Damn, but she's a beauty when she isn't plugged full of vegetation.
robbio
21/10/2012
9:14:56 PM
Hey Paul. Rather than reduce chockstone to a climbing facebook, ill send u an sms. The whole world doesn't have to hear about my climbing weekend. Its far too boring for that...

One thing i will say is that it wasn't too hot at all. Its not summer yet!

Might be up for tarana. Well see.
julian.A
22/10/2012
8:52:40 AM
Hey paul, great to hear you've been recleaning the phoenix. I only moved about 2 tonnes of dirt and rubbish out of it. Looks like you can move the remaining 2.
Julian
PThomson
22/10/2012
10:24:51 AM
G'day Julian.

Yeah, I went out with Adz to climb it a year ago and it was in pretty terrible condition... For every gear placement we had to dig out great quantities of dirt and vegetation. But even then you could see the potential of it, and the idea of a marathon-pitch finge-crack climb is awesome.

I've got a torn hamstring at the moment, and can't really climb, so I figured that I'd do something productive. As you'd know better than anyone else, mate, the Phoenix cleans up damn nicely once all the vegetation is removed. I haven't seen many solid finger-cracks of its type in the Blueys, let alone one this long.

You'll have to head out there for a nostalgic repeat of it once its cleaned up properly.

Regards,

-Paul
julian.A
22/10/2012
10:52:10 AM
Definently keen to get out on it. Unfortunately I tore my patella tendon last week, and am looking at 6 weeks on the lounge, and 6mths recovery.
PThomson
22/10/2012
10:56:45 AM
Damn, mate, genuinely sorry to hear that.

I'm at 3.5 weeks since my injury, looking at at least double that again before I can really climb, but 6 months recovery sounds pretty intimidating. Here's hoping the time flies by.


benjenga
22/10/2012
4:40:42 PM
Well you two would make a perfect back from injury climbing team, just give it a couple of months :)

For all those who have done the phoniex you know all that cleaning is worth it and for everyone else who have been thinking about doing it someday be sure to do it in the next couple of months to keep it clean.
It's a Stella climb with a wide range of trad styles to test your trad skills and well worth the effort.

Trad is Rad.
technogeekery
22/10/2012
5:51:42 PM
On 22/10/2012 benjenga wrote:
>It's a Stella climb

So - its got beer? I'm in!

More seriously - sounds interesting - but the only Phoenix I could find in the BM guide is a zero-star 14 at Cosmic County, so I'm not sure this is what you guys are talking about. Can you give us some more info, please?
PThomson
22/10/2012
8:35:46 PM
Hehe. Would that it had beer, it would be the epitome of a perfect climb =P

It's under the Megalong Valley section of the new Blue Mountains Guide. 48m grade 20 single-pitch (though it can be split up), predominantly finger crack. Lots of 0.4s, 0.5s and 0.75s will come in handy, but don't forget a 4 or two (and maybe a 5) for the 2 moderate off-widths.

The original walk in is still valid (I've done it a few times now) but these days it is basically a 45min bush-bash. As you get closer to summer, the leaches multiply ad infanitum... I still have nightmares of Aarond, 15m up the climb, flicking leaches down at me (on belay), as they emerged from places on his person that I'm afraid to think of.

I'm working on another access route from the top of the cliff, (near Medlow Bath) which saves 15min drive time, and takes 20-30min at the moment. When I finish the track it will take about 20min to the chains (at a reasonable pace). Then you can rap in and climb out. Right now it exists, but is kind of hard to navigate if you don't know where to go. I'm trying to do this "minimal impact", which makes it a bit harder.

Right now the top 50% of the crack is clean, but I need another day to clean the bottom section and finish the track. Then I'd suggest waiting a week or two for some rain to wash out the ambient dirt and make it a truly pleasant crack climb.
technogeekery
23/10/2012
9:04:53 AM
cheers
julian.A
23/10/2012
9:37:49 AM
Hey paul.
We origionally came in from the top. Mind you it was just after the fire, so there was no scrub. There might still be a couple of cairns along the way.
PThomson
23/10/2012
10:38:21 AM
It's funny you should say that, Julian, because that might explain a few rogue cairns that I did find out there. I suspect you took a slightly different route to what I've ended up doing, as I'm trying to pick a path between weak-points in the wall of scrub.

With respect to using the top path as the primary walk in (over walking in from the bottom), the only bit I'm dubious about is traversing the narrow exposed shale-ledge right near the chains. I've been back and forth there a few times with no problems, but it IS potentially dangerous, and my friend who was out there on Saturday flat-out refused to do it. I'd put in a guide-rope (think: access to sweet-dreams ledge at Sublime Point), but there isn't anything to anchor it to on one side.

What do you think, is this micro-crag worth some extra steel driven into the rock to facilitate a guide rope?

E. Wells
23/10/2012
4:14:03 PM
Like a pill popper with his mouth sewn closed......Just do it ground up.
widewetandslippery
23/10/2012
4:23:39 PM
Unreal, chockstone goes body without organs

There are 18 messages in this topic.

 

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