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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

Author
NZ mountaineering over easter!
Llewg
8/02/2012
12:19:24 PM
Hi all,

First post, wooo – although I think I check in here reasonably regularly. My usual climbing buddy has bailed to Europe for the year so I’m looking for anyone that might be interested in heading over to NZ for 9 or 10 days over the Easter break (second week of April) for some late season mountaineering.

First break I’ve been able to get over the summer, so hoping to squeeze a trip in before the season ends. I don’t suppose anyone has climbed in April before?

Pretty open to suggestions, but I had a thought that the full nw ridge of Aspiring could be pretty interesting at that time of year.

Mountaineering experience is probably in the medium range? Mostly in the states. I’ve headed up probably 7 or 8 14’000ft ers on the west coast via a bunch of different routes, plus up the cooky cutter route on Denali. Comfortable using two tools on snow, some experience on mixed, and very limited on straight ice. Aside from a TMC a few years back I’ve only returned to NZ for one other shindig (which was almost completely weathered out).

Sports climb up to 22, comfortable on trad to 20. Based in sydney.

Let me know!

Llew

cruze
8/02/2012
2:00:53 PM
Hey - best of luck for April. It has been really warm over here in NZ for the past couple of months after a pretty light winter precip. Maybe alpine rock routes might be the go unless we get a good dump or ten by April. You probably already know that full nw ridge of Aspiring will probably be rock at that stage except maybe the cap and the Bonar will be well opened. We just did Brewster on the weekend and it was one of the mankiest choss heaps anywhere. Completely dry above the neve. Still purty views but slow with pitching.

That said, there are plenty of peaks to keep you busy...

...like this one:
http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-buttress
or this one:
http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/mitre-pk
or this one, which you should probably steer well clear of:
http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/south-island/otago/huxley-range/chosspile-pk
speaking of which I can put you in contact with Peter Dickson who seems keen to get out and about at the moment.
sleake
8/02/2012
8:44:32 PM
Dont rag on the Huxley too much Cruze - really wicked, easish missions up there - really beautiful walk ins through beech forests, stunning campsites and cool peaks. If you have a car would be well worth a poke around up there - Mt Barf (or Barth - NOT the aspiring one haha - cant remember) - is a super cool 2 day mission and would be doable late season.... i assume hahaha

rock is terrible though.
sleake
8/02/2012
8:52:34 PM
Also...... missions up the Beetham - Malte Brun etc - however apparently access is really tricky this season form the tas, can get a bit more goss on it if your interested.

Dont bother with anything else from the cook side - all the big stuff will be trashed by then - I was there in sept and it was worryingly thin even then.

If you are solid on rock, and the weather is good GET TO THE DARRENS!!!!!!!!!!!

endless stuff - from 1 to 4 to 20 pitch stunning granite rock routes. al over the show - with pretty good approaches - few hours to a day or so, but the sandflies will be shocking, you have been warned haha

cruze
9/02/2012
6:50:23 AM
On 8/02/2012 sleake wrote:
>Dont rag on the Huxley too much Cruze - really wicked, easish missions
>up there - really beautiful walk ins through beech forests, stunning campsites
>and cool peaks. If you have a car would be well worth a poke around up
>there - Mt Barf (or Barth - NOT the aspiring one haha - cant remember)
>- is a super cool 2 day mission and would be doable late season.... i assume
>hahaha
>
>rock is terrible though.
Yeah fair enough. Had a few friends head in there over the recent Waitangi day weekend. Lots of rock routes being done in there atm. Barth is the one you are thinking of. Barf is Matukituki.

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