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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

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Monty and Macca's Midweek Multipitching

Macciza
25/09/2013
3:37:18 PM
Following an online invitation to get in on some tRadish FA action, and the dropping out of other contenders Bundy and Mikl, plans were made to head down to the new Illawarra SuperCrag with Monty for some midweek multipitch mayhem . . .

We opted for only 40 m of static as it would be lighter, we could rap the other half of the route on the lead line and we would be committed to at least climbing the crux pitches on order to escape or have to find an alternative - a perfect plan . . . Monty headed down, doing a little gardening and fixing a short section of slabby scrub, before I followed. Reaching the bottom we pulled the rope and set about the business of getting ourselves out of our self-imposed situation. Basically I haven't climbed or even trained in a few weeks- I stuffed my shoulder up three weeks ago and it's still not back in condition, and I slipped a disk two weeks ago but have been walking upright again for a few days now . . .

I was the initial first-pitch candidate so Monty would get the prized second pitch, plus it looked a little less rocky at the start so may suite my style better. Any way, it all turned out a lot better then it otherwise looked, a good large cam in a flake on the right, launch across some acceptable ironstone ripples to the higher left crack get some gear in and up to a horizontal break at the low roof. Some nice moves to get established in the corner, but it is all a bit too shouldery for me and I opt for a quick sit. After another bit of a hack and re-sorting of holds and sequence, I find myself again compromised by my shoulder trying to place a high cam which seats poorly and I opt to pull on it to reach the next main break and easier gear placement. Only the traverse remains so instead I lower off and clean it so Monty can have a shot. Monty climbed it in a similar fashion but without the rests and continued through the traverse to the belay ledge. I followed cleaning it but blew the traverse bit due to shoulder issues with the extended climbing position and gear removal requirements.

Monty chose to start his pitch with a step over the void around a blunt arete beforing getting somewhat bunched and having to return to the ledge, but finding some better holds on the way. Take two saw him through that section easily and off up the crack, finding good gear placements and a nice rest or two, which was good as it was feeling far steeper then he thought it would be. Some good solutions, climbing and gear wise, got him through to the final cruxy section and to the belay (and fixed line) . . .

I followed but my shoulder was getting somewhat painful at times and by the three quarter mark it gave up and was not going to be much help at the crux, so after a little jiggery-pokery I pulled through a short section and climbed the final bit to the belay.

A short slabby scrubby section got us up to the next major ledge. From here a short corner and traverse leads to a short headwall and another ledge and final womble to the top - job done. We rack, pack and stumble through the bush for 15-20 min back to the car at 6'ish. A great arvo . . .

Probably something like 22ish . . .


IdratherbeclimbingM9
26/09/2013
10:33:42 AM
Interesting TR and also your willingness to push a shoulder during recovery.

I reckon Chocky followers should name your climb, after your recent-

Reconciliation!

~> Does this mean that next thing we will be hearing of you bolting new Pt Perp routes?
;-)



Post edit:
I came across this nm pic elsewhere*, titled 'The Best Pitch', and have ripped it to here for posterity a laugh!




(* That site has some pics of the pitches below this one that show it as actually good. No doubt nm can provide a link if he cares too.)

Macciza
27/09/2013
6:04:32 PM
Cheers M9,
Shoulder wasn't too bad, just feels unstable, painful in certain spots/movements - prob a bit of tendon/muscle damage. I thought my back would be more of a problem (slipped disk) 2 weeks earlier, only back to upright for a few days. Combined it meant no training whatsoever, not even chinups were possible. And of course one tends to figure it will all work out ok . . .

It was a good arvo and gave us both a bit of insight into each others climbing style - My climbing over less then perfect rock to reach the crack and then get gear in might have surprised Neil; and Neil keeping it all together during his 'fall on the belayer' phase. And neither of us really needing to say anything about it at the time . . .
Also heading down past one of my early abseiling locations from the late 70's was interesting - particularly to find that was round about when Neil was born . . . .

I think the name is going to reflect on current social issues - 'Stop The Bolts' . . .
Whether that is just some careful ploy by Neil to limit reporting of new routes or actually turn them back remains to be seen . . . .

PS. That photo does not do justice to the slab that I have just come up . . .

nmonteith
28/09/2013
8:42:17 PM
Sorry it took me so long to respond!

Yere, it was a great day out Macca. As I suspected all along we do actually get along in real life. I didn't even get to use my belay knife...

The climb is great fun! I went back today and did a bit of gardening on pitch 3, it was originally a hairy dirty slab with a scenic strip of vegetation - now it's a stonker crack. I also added a set of rap anchors on the top so you only need one rope - and you can pull/rap your way down for 100% commitment. No fixed ropes required!

I've written a pretty good route description on thecrag.com
http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/wollongong/area/351930750

I should be there after midday tomorrow trying a couple of other new lines... including a potential more direct finish to the route through the big roofs - I found a line of scoops and jugs which don't look much harder than the other pitches - 22ish. It would certainly make for a climatic finish rather than wandering up the easy corner.

nmonteith
28/09/2013
8:48:18 PM


Rapping in



Pitch 1 corner



Pitch 2 face
maxdacat
30/09/2013
11:27:18 AM
Nice looking rock....is it just bog standard sandstone?

nmonteith
30/09/2013
12:34:07 PM
On 30/09/2013 maxdacat wrote:
>Nice looking rock....is it just bog standard sandstone?

Pretty much. Has a bit of varnish on lots of it. Takes solid trad - and drills like Nowra rock (ie compact all the way through, rather than hard outer crust and sand like the Bluies)

nmonteith
30/09/2013
12:35:13 PM
Here is another new route we did on the weekend. Splitter grade 20!



Miguel75
30/09/2013
2:48:18 PM
Those routes look like rad fun...

sbm
30/09/2013
7:05:04 PM
Looks great. Any cooler than Nowra in summer you reckon?

Unfortunately unlike Macca, I dealt with shoulder issues by sending all my shoes away either to get resoled, or to friends for safekeeping. It works. Least it's nearly hot enough for canyoning now.

nmonteith
30/09/2013
9:40:01 PM
It's a lot cooler. For starters it 400m altitude at the top, and gets proper sea breezes. On the weekend we were getting cold on belay.

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

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