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Strangeness and Charm Video TR

8:01:26 AM

This was an alzheimer ascent - I last did the route in 2000 and had very little memory of any of it! I actually backed off the last pitch this time as I was not at all happy with the lead bolt (rusty 5/16th inch carrot - fully threaded = 1/4inch bolt). I presume you go left at the bolt - I was a bit unsure and not willing to fall off. It's a bit amusing asking for beta for a route I have done previously! We heard some big rockfall a bit further upstream - you can hear it at one point in the video... wear helmets!

Big G
11:38:04 AM
nice TR Neil. The face of your partner during the rockfall is priceless.
5:46:17 PM
I've always wanted to do it, minus the walk out. I guess if I was fit I could finish up something on the north side haha.

6:55:25 PM
Classic :)

Good to see the gorge has finally dried.
7:52:32 PM
Backing off, you've changed you'll be getting married :)
8:50:38 AM
The last 3 pitches were bolted Sunday. The bolt you backed off on only took 2 hits with the hammer to snap and go sailing into the gorge. It was a very old Rawlplug. Now its a shinny new fat 12mm dyna, with the same easy run out. You step down after clipping that bolt move left then up the groove 8m? to some really good gear/thread, then another bolt, its not bad at all. The top chains have also moved up and right a little (5m) so you have a good ledge stance at the chain instead of a slab hang. Also better for the rap back down to the hole. So now clip the old anchor as last runner and move up the slab easily to new double chain. You still need one bolt plate on the 4th pitch, or small wire, or just sling the chicken head 1m below. Would be nice to remove the old chain in the hole belay for aesthetics but need an imperial size spanner or shifter...
Chris Warner
9:02:10 AM
sorry I should say re-bolted...just replaced what was there

10:10:12 AM
Wow - awesome! That's service!

There were three closely spaced new bolts up and left of pitch 2's belay. Any idea what they are for?

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