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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
Winter climbing in the Ramsheads from last year.

sbm
19/04/2013
10:20:14 AM
We rediscovered this video on the hard drive from last year. Winter climbing in Australia! A great sketchy lead from Bulti quickly degenerated into the Completely Incompetent Seconds Show, as me and Matt get the ropes tangled, freeze our hands, climb with one (leashed) tool each, make inappropriate trundles, use crampons on downhill ski boots, and climb dangerously close together. Heaps of fun.


I've now bought Dynafit ski mountaineering boots so this year I hope to be slightly less retarded.
technogeekery
19/04/2013
10:30:04 AM
Given the quality of the rock, perhaps its best climbed with that strange white stuff covering it up!

TFPU - always good to see the strange ways in which we have fun :-)

pmonks
19/04/2013
10:31:23 AM
Noice! Was the trundled block the same one the wire was placed beside?

Pat
19/04/2013
10:50:22 AM
Nice hopeful placement of that ice-screw into the soft mush. Great fun!
bultitude
19/04/2013
1:24:02 PM
Hey, I'm "Bulti", I led this and edited.

The Nut was in a different crack and seemed pretty secure, I've got footage of it being cleaned, but i cut it cause i felt it was getting pretty shaky/boring lol!

Actually the screw was pretty good when I led. The left side was iced up a fair amount better than the right (it was more in the shade) and the core of the screw was continuous. Better than some screws i've placed not as good as others!

The tricky part to protect is actually the head wall above, where there was a rock bulge thing to mantle onto the top. Took me a while to "arrange" a no.1 knifeblade that may have held body weight :P

Also lesson learned about taking a half/twin and tieing in at the middle and leading on that. Rope got seriously twisted! not too mention I ran out just where I needed to belay luckily!

The Ramsheads look like a good spot for some seriously fun mixed/snow covered, rock/rime, steep, short stuff. The only problem is the access is a little odd. You can catch the chairlift almost there, but not till 9:30 which is really too late. So if you want good ice you'd have to hike the resort in the dark or sleep up top! Ohh well could be worse!

Some of the best accessed mixed stuff looks to be opposite Seaman's Hut on the etheridge!

http://www.snow-forecast.com/system/images/20913/original/Thredbo.jpg?1354622317

Check out those rime filled cracks with easy hut access!

Sabu
19/04/2013
2:07:59 PM
Awesome stuff!

Cool Hand Lock
19/04/2013
2:10:01 PM
You should use a dead man. They'd hold, maybe.

Pat
19/04/2013
4:24:42 PM
Good on you for getting out there - I was looking at how deep the plugs holes were from your boots.

bw
19/04/2013
4:34:56 PM
On 19/04/2013 bultitude wrote:

>The Ramsheads look like a good spot for some seriously fun mixed/snow
>covered, rock/rime, steep, short stuff. The only problem is the access
>is a little odd. You can catch the chairlift almost there, but not till
>9:30 which is really too late. So if you want good ice you'd have to hike
>the resort in the dark or sleep up top! Ohh well could be worse!

yeah could be good fun when then the snow is shit, short tour, camp & climb... can you rent ice tools in jindy? (thats a bit hopeful!)

also, doesn't seamans hut close in winter?
brendan
19/04/2013
6:41:45 PM
On 19/04/2013 bw wrote:
>On 19/04/2013 bultitude wrote:
>
>>The Ramsheads look like a good spot for some seriously fun mixed/snow
>>covered, rock/rime, steep, short stuff. The only problem is the access
>>is a little odd. You can catch the chairlift almost there, but not till
>>9:30 which is really too late. So if you want good ice you'd have to
>hike
>>the resort in the dark or sleep up top! Ohh well could be worse!
>
>yeah could be good fun when then the snow is shit, short tour, camp &
>climb... can you rent ice tools in jindy? (thats a bit hopeful!)
>
>also, doesn't seamans hut close in winter?

Seamans doesnt close in winter, its fully stocked up with firewood and has a pot belly stove, its an "emergency only" shelter.

Those lines behind seamans hut are OKish but i would go to blue lake instead, ive soloed the steepest looking lines while up there with my girlfriend a couple of years ago.
brendan
19/04/2013
6:45:35 PM
On 19/04/2013 sbm wrote:
>We rediscovered this video on the hard drive from last year. Winter climbing
>in Australia! A great sketchy lead from Bulti quickly degenerated into
>the Completely Incompetent Seconds Show, as me and Matt get the ropes tangled,
>freeze our hands, climb with one (leashed) tool each, make inappropriate
>trundles, use crampons on downhill ski boots, and climb dangerously close
>together. Heaps of fun.
>

>I've now bought Dynafit ski mountaineering boots so this year I hope to
>be slightly less retarded.

the video says M4 30 metres, pretty staunch seconding that with a single icetool and downhill ski boots. Got this line on a topo? sounds like fun
climberman
19/04/2013
7:41:44 PM
Bulti - you should be able to get on a lift at 0830.

If you really want to get there early go via dead horse gap up, it's a starting elevation of almost 1570m rather than 1370 or so. Plus, there are steps.

I feel like a bit of a knob saying it but you're only supposed to use Seaman's hut in an emergency, not just as a base to crash in. It becomes a bit of a turd fest in spring as all the little brown presents begin to reappear form their frozen home over winter... so consider packing out your turds.
climberman
19/04/2013
7:45:11 PM
PS, looks like fun. I fukin freaked myself witless out near golden gully last winter, got a bit wedged skiing and went to climb out out the gully, ended up mixed climbing with skis on the back and loose rubble and aluminium crampons and an alu tool and got to one spot where I suddenly had a 30 odd meter cliff fall line and went... ahhhh ... this is farked. And reversed it about four moves form a top out.
bultitude
21/04/2013
11:43:47 PM
Not super sure on the grade, my understanding was M4 was anything vertical and M3 was less than vertical? Winter grades are always super fun to try and figure out! Don't have a topo photo at the moment, but when I'm in the ramsheads again ill take one.

With regards to Seaman's Hut, I know it is an emergency shelter and usually camp near it so you can cook/chill out inside during the evening. That said last time I was there there were THREE groups all sleeping in there all of which reckoned it was usual practice for people to do so all winter. Some cops were doing an exercise with NPWS on snowmobile and stopped by for tea and didn't even seem surprised there were people there. If you d have a fire you should be super conservative and save enough wood for an emergency obviously.
bultitude
21/04/2013
11:45:25 PM
Ohh and yeh, we have a poop shoot we use for overnighters!
Mike Bee
23/04/2013
1:27:16 PM
On 19/04/2013 Pat wrote:
>Good on you for getting out there - I was looking at how deep the plugs
>holes were from your boots.

I gotta agree, if your getting half your foot into the snow, and burying the pick of the axe all the way to the shaft, there is no way the screw was going to hold anything. Just because the core was continous, it doesn't mean the snow was infact strong ice.

I'm a bit dubious about the grade too. I've climbed some M4 and M5 stuff in Banff, and there is absolutely no way you can get up it with one tool (unless maybe you're Will Gadd). Did you need to use your tools on the rock at all, or was it one tool in the snow, one hand on the rock?

That said, top work on getting out there an exploring the Aussie Alpine area. Looks like a fun day out. I've skiied in that area a few times, I'm definitely keen to head back there this winter, hopefully with some axes and crampons.
bultitude
23/04/2013
2:57:13 PM

Bogons Ice from Mike Giles on Vimeo.



Since people seemed to like the last one, more shaky go pro footage of some aussie ice/mixed seconding. Climbing and Filming Mike Giles, Me leading again!

This time it's a repeat of one of the lines at Mount Bogong.
bultitude
23/04/2013
3:32:38 PM
If I had to guess, I would reckon we were on "Dripping Groove" then stayed in the Coolie instead of up through the mixed section above.

http://www.chockstone.org/MtBogong/Members/NeilM/DrippingGrooveTopo1l.jpg

There are 18 messages in this topic.

 

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