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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Topic Date User
Hotel Weaselburger 9-Feb-2013 At 7:20:11 PM PThomson
Message
G'day François, Dominik and Alex.

You know, I'm becoming a bit paranoid... For your last few trip reports I've had this sneaking suspicion that you've stolen my itinerary, as this isn't the first time you've snuck out and done a multipitch a week or so before I get there. I climbed Weaselburger the week AFTER you did this climb, and I climbed Burgermeister today, so I thought I'd share a few of my own thoughts with respect to your own obscuro linkup. I swear, if you do Yak Banquet at Perrys or Hotel C in the next 2-3 weeks, I'm gonna cancel my credit card and install cameras around my house. =P

Weaselburger P1 - I agree, crux at start, but sustained climbing afterwards. Great pitch. You should try the first pitch of Burgermeister, despite being a 20 (!!!) the first 10m are harder than anything on this pitch of The Weasel, though its not sustained.

Burgermeister P2 - Despite this being my SECOND time leading (cleanly) the nails first 10m of this pitch (which is shared with The Weasel), I still found it hard, and the 1st clip ABOVE the belay is hard as hell to get to. (Both times I've aided off the draw and a carrot bolt for a footer to pre-clip that draw, before lowering off and sending the pitch). There was also another hard move mid-way through this pitch (but it was definately less sustained than P2 of The Weasel). In your TR, you referred to the pitches below P6 (or P5, if you don't count the Walk Left) as " look[ing] like kindergarden stuff" compared to that pitch. To which I say: Are you Crazy??? =P

Burgermeister P3 - Both myself and Taib also found this pitch kind of unmemorable, though still good climbing. A fair bit of choss, though.

Weaselburger P5 - Easier than Mirrorball Proper (21), though more run-out, and scary cause all the crap rock hasn't been broken off yet.

Weaselburger P6 - I found this pitch sustained, though not really that hard. The thin crimping at the start is quite exciting what with the run out (Taib made the same comment as Alex when he first saw it), and the move to which you now owe me a beer (hehe) was negotiated fairly easily with right hand in the undercling, right foot high rock-over, and cross through left hand to the arete, no sketchy undercling match. I suppose, compared to your experience on P2, we can only say: "Different strokes for different folks". PS: I also did it post Alex's "chipping", so he can rest easy that it's not too much harder.

Weaselburger P7 - I found this mind boggling and funky. Some steep jugging, then a no-hands chimeying rest part way through the steep stuff, followed by a cut loose (I NEVER cut loose!) and some more steep jugging. Weird!

Aaaanyway... Just figured you might enjoy some shared experiences on these climbs. Bloody great TR lads, good climbing, and stop hacking my Itinerary!

-Paul

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