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||Thursday, 30 August 2012 At 5:06:59 PM
|Karen’s Climb, Rosa Gully, Sydney seacliffs
I recall that this was a bit of a sandbag and I bumped it from 13 to 15 in the 1990 seacliff guidebook. I was interested in climbing it and seeing if it could be a seacliff classic, as it goes through some good territory. I went out there with Alex (another Tempe local) on a vile wet day and backed off at the 3m mark, pride in tatters. This time I returned in good conditions with (after re-reading my old route description - “A rambling tale of mank and terror, the first pitch needs a BR or two”) a drill and some carrots. As usual, the ladders and approach were interesting,
The ladder leads to a flat ledge that I had a horrific nightmare about riding a mountain bike on once.
Alex on the ledge
I plonked a bolt an at the 4m mark and did an easy mantel, then another mantel past little wires that felt ok as there was a bolt just below the cute little devils. I wandered up nice climbing up a juggy wall with good cams and hexes, there was supposed to be a 2BB here but I couldn’t even see rust streaks from the bolts I supposedly sank in the early 80s. I headed out left through a bit of choss (and good wires) and belayed on new bolts in the middle of an easy slab and apparently did pitch 2 also, more like 10m than 30m. I’d guess the new pitch was 30m long and about 17 with the new bolts, a pleasant wander.
Alex seconding P1
An easy exposed traverse across a slab followed by a short V chimney then more ledgy stuff, I ended going out right and up a loose flake to avoid the mud and plants after Sydney’s wettest year ever. Pitch 2 was a celebration of choss and doddle, it wanders like a drunk across dirty ledges, but the views are great, maybe 30m and 16.
Alex nearing the top of the botany tour.
I’ll probably add some stainless to it in the future, and do a variant finish to avoid the ledgy second pitch. As it is, take lots of gear, and hexes, and slings. One star.
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