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Sublime Climbs - A Guide to the best rock climbing venues in Victoria, Australia.By Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding & Jarrod Hodgson. Over 700 climbs, 158 phototopos, 36 maps, and 380 pages covering the best of Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo and the Grampians $45.00
Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports
Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!
||Wednesday, 1 August 2012 At 2:18:47 PM
Boulders (in Cresciano)
* Never Ending Story, 6b+, Cresciano
* Feeling, 6a, Cresciano
* Aria Sottile, 6a, Cresciano
* Various other unknown/easier problems
Routes (on the Glattenberg, near the Bergseehutte, Uri Alps):
* Geissrigga 6a, 140m
* Solo Trip 6a, 140m
* Mönch 4107m, attempted normal route on SE ridge, turned back at about 3900m.
* Schijenstock 3161m, attempted normal route on SE ridge, turned back in approach couloir.
* Schwarzhorn 2928m, traverse using Via Ferrata on SW ridge and normal route on S ridge
* Bergseeschijen 2815m, summit via normal route on E ridge.
* Pizzo di Claro 2727m, traverse via S ridge and Brogoldone route
* A couple of the towers at the base of the Bergseeschijen S ridge.
I still find it really hard, almost physically hard, to book plane tickets. It's the point at which you're committed really. Well, you're definitely going now, you think, as you stare at the airline email. Time to actually start worrying. I mean, I've been to NZ once, which is technically overseas I guess, but though I put it off and put it off, I felt I pretty much had to go somewhere actually different eventually.
Hey guys, not gunna come to Blue Lake this year, I'm going to Europe by myself for a month. Yeah, first time overseas really.
I had friends who were now living in Zurich and Bern, and my mum's family to visit in Milan. So ostensibly it was "friends and relatives and general Euro-backpacking trip". But, of course I packed shoes and harness and a helmet and some other bits and pieces, and got a lot of climbing done.
My contacts for climbing partners were not promising. Alex: "I was going to do a lead climbing course and buy a harness and shoes, but then I didn't". Marcus: "I've been bouldering at the wall at ETH Zurich, it's fun, but I only really do it for the fitness". Stephie: "I think she did an ice climbing course actually, but she's away for a couple weeks". Ari would have been keen, but had injured something. Scotty was in Bern, but hasn't climbed since he dislocated his shoulder in Mt Hay Canyon a few years back. Some guy on Chockstone was looking for a partner in the Dolomites.
Anyway, I had a good first week in Zurich, went clubbing, drank Feldschlossen on the trams, went to a 4th of July BBQ, went to Italy, visited the Casino Royale villa on Lake Como, e.t.c. e.t.c.
The university bouldering wall at ETH Zurich is amazing by the way. Free, outdoors, two large wooden artificial boulders with all sorts of problems, rubber matting on the ground, permanent slackline. Those Euros have it worked out. I think Marcus was slightly put out when I campused one of his favourite problems though.
But finally I was like "Well, see you later guys, I'm gunna try and go bouldering in this village in Ticino, it's called Cresciano".
Part 1: Ticino
Part 2: Bern and the Berner Oberland
Part 3: Göschenen, the Bergseehütte, and the Uri Alps (full photo album of the climbing)
Part 4: Italy (unfortunately, the canyoning in Lombardy and visit to the Dolomites didn't happen)
There's more than enough wanky climbing blogging there, but if you can't be effed, fair enough, just go look at the pictures.
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