Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

Black Diamond: Super Chute Rope Bag. Volume 25 litres. Single adjustable shoulder strap. Rope tarp dimensions: 146 X 126cm. 400d nylon. Assorted colours. (Holds up to 80M Rope)  $49.00
30% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
TR: Winnie the Pooh (Mt Buffalo)
hairy1
28/03/2012
12:45:16 PM
In keeping with my interest in getting on climbs I haven't done at Buffalo, we summoned up the motivation to do Winnie the Pooh, a 4 pitch grade 19 on Sewer Wall. Instead of walking in, we rapped from below Beowulf on a 70m rope over the route (which just made the distance), looking for the standard not-often-repeated-route problems; water streaks, moss, choss and dirt. As it happened, besides a little bit of choss on the first (easier) pitch, the rock was clean, dry and solid!

Alice led the first pitch, ~15m grade 16ish - if you were rapping in it might be worth omitting this pitch, as whilst its not worthless, its not up to par with the second and third pitches

pitch 1: pretty straightforward really.


Rapping over the route, I worked out all the key beta for the second pitch - unlocking the crucial body thrutch, off-fist thrutch, chimney sequence off the ledge would be the key. It was gold! I ripped up one arm of my thermal top and have scratches from my knees to my elbows. Hats off to the FA team in 1972, I guess they must have really wanted to survive. Seconding it, the (somewhat) skinny alice found she could get deeper in the crack and squirmed up it in next to no time. The rest of the pitch was described as "easier" but in reality off fist jamming and laybacking up an increasingly steep line is not that easy.

Alice emerging from the crux of pitch 2:


Alice seconding P2:


Having been comprehensively shut down on Cachaphonic crack the day before (well in to the crux "sequence" but well clear of success) Alice was a bit nervous glancing up at the "crux" third pitch. Happily for her she could get her entire left leg in to it, and slimed up it with aplomb.

Alice leading the "crux" pitch using the ever reliable knee jam. Classic bum shot.


We took one look at the fourth pitch (a haven of biodiversity) and elected to scramble up the gully to where we had abseiled in from.

All in all, pitch 2 and 3 are classic (for the genre) climbing up a striking, clean line - especially when viewed from the north wall - probably worth a star each. Wear socks.
kieranl
28/03/2012
1:05:28 PM
Good stuff.
Ferret and me grovelled up most of it with the aid of our rap-rope many years ago after a failure on a line out right. The rap-rope certainly helped!

Superstu
28/03/2012
1:08:48 PM
Great entertaining read timmie. Inspires me to get off the faces and on the real climbs next time I'm at the big B.
kieranl
28/03/2012
3:16:33 PM
On 28/03/2012 hairy1 wrote:
>Rapping over the route, I worked out all the key beta for the second pitch
>- unlocking the crucial body thrutch, off-fist thrutch, chimney sequence
>off the ledge would be the key. It was gold! I ripped up one arm of my
>thermal top and have scratches from my knees to my elbows. Hats off to
>the FA team in 1972, I guess they must have really wanted to survive. Seconding
>it, the (somewhat) skinny alice found she could get deeper in the crack
>and squirmed up it in next to no time. The rest of the pitch was described
>as "easier" but in reality off fist jamming and laybacking up an increasingly
>steep line is not that easy.
>
I think Winnie The Pooh was at the end of Noddy and Andrew Thomson's road trip up through the centre of Australia (not sure whether that was the attempt or the success on Kangaroo Tail) coming back via Queensland. They had just done some early repeats of hard crack climbs at Frog so were fairly firing on cracks.

Miguel75
28/03/2012
4:49:41 PM
Rad TR. Looks and sounds like a fun day.

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints